What is this kilt pleated to?

[mayberry]

Hello all,
While procrastinating on ebay, I came across this kilt (too small for me). I am confused by the pleating. It seems to be neither to the stripe nor the sett. Any thoughts?
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/261350949201?...84.m1423.l2649

Cheers,
John

[Kilted Cole]

It appears to be pleated to the sett....needs a fresh ironing for sure though.

[Hawk]

Steve or Barb or Rocky could confirm this also, from our Kiltmaking community, what say you folks?

Hawk

[Chas]

It appears to be pleated to the sett....needs a fresh ironing for sure though.

Agree 100%.

[Grizzly]

I agree pleated to the crease.... I mean sett.

[Nathan]

I was curious about the tartan on that one.

[TheOfficialBren]

I think that it os one of those odd pleating jobs that Barb T. and Bonnie Heather have both mentioned in the past...neither sett nor stripe but something in the middle...but I forget the reasoning behind it. Perhaps sett size is an issue with this particular tartan or perhaps pleating wasn't as much of a consideration. I've seen quite a few "kilts" at Games and Festivals which to the untrained eye look fine but the trained eye sees what is really happening--a seamstress made a kilt-like-garment but knew nothing about proper kilt construction (fine stitching but an odd outcome).

I recall a number of historical examples that are pleated in this way. This kilt, being obviously old, might be one of those.

I also recall very old historical examples that are entirely random in their pleating, neither stripe nor sett nor rhyme nor reason.

Just my tuppence.

An expert will weigh in shortly and certainly be better equipped to respond. That's why I love this place.