Questions on Tweed Coat Conversion

[Rick Y]

Is there a standard or rule of thumb for the curves to be created on the coat to allow for clearance for the sporran? How about the length of the coat? Should it fall to the natural waist, the pants waist, or where? This is just an old tweed coat that I hope to convert for casual day wear. Thanks.

[pbutts]

When you search for the term "jacket conversion" you will get some great examples and see threads by several talented X Marks members who can help you. The most detailed thread, in my opinion, is this one which should answer many of your questions--

http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f...-jacket-30726/

[usonian]

The thread pbutts linked to is invaluable.

I haven't done many conversions, but some observations based on my limited experience:

Regarding length, I'm pretty sure I read a rule of thumb somewhere on here that a good length for a kilt jacket is for the bottom of the jacket to be more or less even with the bottom of the fell of the kilt (On a bespoke, traditionally made kilt that would be the widest part of your hips.) But I'm sure there are varying opinions on the matter and ultimately, it comes down to what you think looks best on you. Before cutting into the bottom of the jacket you can fold it up to the inside, pin it, and try the jacket on with your kilt to see what looks good. Then once you do cut the bottom you'll want to fold and pin the edge, and try it on to make sure everything looks even before basting and final sewing.

Regarding the curves for the sporran cutaway, you'll be somewhat at the mercy of where the buttonholes lie on the jacket; if you're shortening a two-button coat to a one-button kilt jacket, the trick is to start the curve right at the top button and have it fall gracefully away from the second button/buttonhole without any abrupt or awkward angles (while leaving enough of a seam allowance for you to turn the newly cut edge under and hem it.) Sometimes you'll be able to make a nice gradual curve, other conversions I've seen here have more of a rounded corner transitioning to a diagonal line to another rounded corner at the bottom of the jacket. Both can look good as long as both sides are symmetrical and the curves smooth.

[madmacs]

I created a couple of curve patterns from my store bought argyll jacket.

http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/m.../albums/stuff/

I'd suggest pinning the two sides and the hem to get an idea of how it will look before cutting.

If you haven't bought a donor jacket yet, you might want to consider looking at a shorter fitting (s/r/l) and lengthening the sleeves as it will raise the pockets.

[sydnie7]

If the material is "tweedy" enough, I've toyed with the idea of ignoring the placement of second/lowest buttonhole and cutting right through it, if needed to create the most pleasing curve. Then pick out the buttonhole threads, perhaps iron a bit of interfacing to the wrong side to reinforce what's left of the buttonhole slit, maybe use some matching thread to close up the slit if there is a lot of it remaining on the front of the jacket. Then go ahead with the conversion, pretending that little slit no longer exists.

Haven't tried it, so no guarantees. But the hairy-er the fabric, the less likely anybody will notice that little mend vs. them noticing an awkward "curve" forced by your need to dodge the buttonhole entirely.

It's on my list to try this. . . don't hold your breath, it's a ways down a long list.

[Elizabeth]

I've been wondering about the style of cut that goes horizontal for the space right under the button and then goes down to the curved jacket bottom. I think it would work well for jacket conversions but not sure if the style is appropriate? I recall seeing it on military jackets.

Edited to add... Like this conversion; http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f...version-77390/

[Kiltboy]

If the material is "tweedy" enough, I've toyed with the idea of ignoring the placement of second/lowest buttonhole .....

I've done this. It was a thrift store Harris Tweed which was damaged by a cat. (quite shocking) I cut through the middle of the buttonhole, then "fluffed" the surrounding threads after picking it apart. Then stitched it up. Since the tweed was soft and had some great body, it was well disguised. Lots of steaming too. It's not perfect on close inspection, but looks good to me for a $4 jacket. The hard job was fixing the cat damage/snags.