Finished my first kilt build! Heavy. Tactical. Warm.

[Hipbilly]

Last night I finally got my first kilt finished up; I was looking for a traditional fit, but with tougher fabric, but still warm for winter/fall camping and hiking.
I got 3 yards of ripstop cotton (~8oz, I think? dunno.), split it, and made a 6yard length.
Now for the fun part; I also ordered 3yds of cotton flannel, in a nice brown plaid (anyone recognize this as a tartan?)
This is the first fully flannel lined kilt I've seen. maybe someone has done it, but I'd like to think I invented something!
Here's the cloth. 25 feet... fabrics are joined at the hem.


Here's the right side of the kilt; reverse Kingussie, 22 pleats, 1.25" reveal, ~2.5" deep.


Here's the wrong side; and one of the items I need to finish, the actual lining. it'll be the same flannel fabric from the top of the waistband down to the flannel below the fell. notice the effect of pleating a 4.5" repeat to a 5.5" center; I call it "pleating to the super sett". Also notice, i removed the flannel from the deep pleats to free up the fabric to let the aprons move more freely. This also lets the 1st pleat's flannel kick that pleat out in the air on either side of the apron, as seen below in the "front shot". This will be remedied by stitching down the internal knife edge of the pleats, and adding weight.


Front shot; not a huge fan of "cargo kilts", so I'm going with a "tactical sporran" (i.e. molle canteen cover)


Side shot:


Pleat shot:


Items to finish before it's actually "Done":
1.) Stitch down interior knife edge to help pleats lay flatter
2.) weight bottoms of pleats with quarters ($6, anyone?) to help "swing" and straighten the hang.
3.) add buckles (plastic slide, like belt, two on each side of apron)
4.) add belt loops
5.) fully line waist-to-fell with extra flannel

Items of note from build:
-I've not weighed the finished kilt yet, but I'd estimate this to be the same total fabric weight as a 16 or 18 oz wool kilt.
-While heavy, the composite fabric is stiff; it swings a little bit, but will need repeated washing/wearing to break in and "swing" correctly.
-When you build to your own measurements and get the taper just right in the pleats and aprons, it's a nice comfy feeling the first time you wrap it on;; like a big hug

[Tarheel]

From rags to riches. Great job (for a country boy) Thanks for the pictures of the kilt.

[Hawk]

Excellent first kilt.....well done......

Hawk

[The Wizard of BC]

The old adage of "there is nothing new under the sun" is true.

I remember quite a few discussion here in the early days of the forum about kilts that are lined. The old Pittsburgh Kilts used to do these quite regularly.
I also seem to remember having two or three members make their own kilts with flannel linings.

So sorry, you are not the first, but I must say that you did a really good job. Congratulations.

[Elf]

Hoorah! Nice job. A very clean look. Wear it often and enjoy.

[Hawk]

Hipbilly, you might consider using something besides metal-like quarters if you are considering weights.....any of our kilt makers have a suggestion for Hipbilly?

Hawk

[Pleater]

You might get better movement by having the two layers more separate - rather than joining at the lower edge, let the lining hang from the fell.

I usually press in the pleats before sewing, and I'd fold and press the inner folds into the lining making the separation just a fraction smaller than the outer layer, so the visible folds of the completed kilt are just a little lacking in the inner layer. That should mean that the pleats are inclined to remain on line.

I deal with pleats which kick out by lifting the inner fold at the waistline so there is a slender triangle of fabric raised up. For me that is to counter body shape, to get a two dimensional fabric to wrap around a three dimensional shape, but it would also negate changes in the structure of the fabric.


This is the under apron and its pleat, viewed from the outside of the kilt during construction.

That is probably more use for future projects, so as the kilt is finished, you might be able to sew in a couple of lines of thread for a few inches vertically down from the fell and close to the inner fold to contract its length enough to resolve the problem with that unruly pleat.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

[Pleater]

The 'after' shape is much less A line, far more like a traditional kilt in having parallel sides. It should mature into an excellent garment.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

[Benning Boy]

Man, I dig it. Kits made of heavy wool can be fairly comfortable on cold days, but they suck on cold windy days as the fabric is a pretty poor wind breaker. I've often thought I'd like a winter kilt made in two layers like yours, something warm on the inside, and a wind breaking layer on the outside. I think if I were to weight the lower edge of a kilt, I'd use a long length of the heaviest bead chain, rather than individual weights like quarters, or fishing sinkers.

[Hipbilly]

Finished. Added the buckles!