who does military box pleats?

**OC Richard** · 14th July 17, 09:43 AM

I'm strongly considering getting a military style full yardage military style boxpleated kilt.

By "full yardage" I mean anything over 7 yards (as we know "8 yard kilts" oftentimes have a bit less).

Who makes such? It would be great if a maker, or a customer, could chime in with information.

I would also want the "high rise", green binding, pleated to the stripe, and a specific stripe centered on the front apron. Either 16oz or the 18oz MOD fabric would be fine. The tartan would be MacKenzie modern.

Thanks!

The back would look more or less like this

and the front apron would have the red stripe centered.

**Taskr** · 14th July 17, 09:54 AM

You might get in touch with the Seaforth Highlanders of Canada
https://www.seaforthhighlanders.ca/

there is also this listing
http://www.canadiansoldiers.com/uniforms/kilts.htm

**Father Bill** · 14th July 17, 09:56 AM

I believe that Burnett & Struth, one of our advertisers still does those, and perhaps Steve would do it as well.

**Ordway** · 14th July 17, 12:31 PM

Robert MacDonald of West Coast Kilts www.westcoastkilts.com in Vancouver is the Regimental Kilt Maker.

**Steve Ashton** · 14th July 17, 12:48 PM

Wow, the kilt in the photo above is just about ready to come apart. it seems that there is no stabilizer built into it or the stabilizer has failed or perhaps someone moved the straps and did not catch the stabilizer when they sewed them back on.
The apron is being totally distorted.

And I'm sorry but I'm not going to volunteer for this job. Military box pleats are not my favorite. And the only weaver offering 18oz fabric is House of Edgar. Their prices are really high, and their fabric is different that the fabric used back when. It is modern kilt fabric. Worsted Twill weave but not "In the grease" which is why the old kilts feel so heavy and stiff.

The current RRS kilts are made of 16oz fabrics and are machine sewn/hand finished. Black binding and single prong buckles.

Plus I am off to teach at Kilt Kamp next week and I am writing the last chapters of "The Art of Contemporary Kiltmaking" so my calendar is full.

**Tobus** · 14th July 17, 02:09 PM

John at Keltoi offers military box pleats. Though I understand he is MIA these days (or was the last I heard). He did good work, and was one of the few left who would make them on the open market.

If you're looking for a MacKenzie modern kilt in full high-rise military style, have you considered just buying a vintage one? Oddly enough, the only military kilt I have is exactly that. They used to be quite common. It was always tough finding one short enough for me, but as I recall you're a rather tall fellow. Even if you couldn't find one with enough girth (vintage ones are usually for extremely skinny young soldiers), maybe it could be modified to fit?

Quality-wise, they beat the pants off the modern MoD kilts. It's an extremely heavy kilt. One of the things I really like about it is the internal elastic band that helps keep the pleats organized.

*edited to add: according to the tag in my MoD kilt, it was made by Hector Russell (Highland Industries Ltd.) in 1993. It's tagged as a Kilt No. 2 Q.O.H. (Queen's Own Highlanders, of course). I'm pretty sure they don't advertise making military kilts these days, but it could be worth contacting them and seeing if they would take one on. Just for good old times' sake.

**OC Richard** · 14th July 17, 04:18 PM

Originally Posted by Steve Ashton

House of Edgar... fabric is different that the fabric used back when. It is modern kilt fabric. Worsted Twill weave but not "In the grease" which is why the old kilts feel so heavy and stiff.

Yes indeed!

That uber-heavy Canadian kilt I used to wear back in the 70s was so stiff that I could buckle it and stand it up on its own. Amazing. I called it the horse-blanket kilt.