Cutting pleats in a low yardage knife pleat

[Michael A]

I have a budget 5 yard kilt from Glenisla. As was noted by Steve a few months ago, it was made to the barest minimum standard for a wool kilt. Yet, it is still made from Lochcarron Strome (as confirmed by Craig at Kilts4Less from whom I bought the kilt when I first started wearing them).

There is no steeking or canvas interfacing. The buckles are attached directly to the wool. My intent it to take the lining and buckles/straps off and finish it properly. I have some of the same fabric on order from Lochcarron, with which I intend to try my hand at a military box pleat kilt next year, so I will have plenty of left-over material from cut pleats with which to remake buckle tabs (the Glenisla has leather tabs).

But Since this is only a low yardage kilt with very shallow pleats (less than 3 yards in the pleats), is it necessary to cut these pleats first, or could I just stitch the stabiliser on, steek, then stitch canvas down without cutting then apply lining?

[IsaacW]

I am very curious to hear what people have to say. From what I have seen of all the different 5-yarders being made out there, none that have seen are cut, nor do any have stabilizer and serious internals. I have been told that this is due to the yardage. Without the cut-away in the pleats and with the lower yardage, the needs of stabilizers, etc. are not there.

[Taskr]

I am also curious what the kilt makers have to offer....

Maybe the construction allows the wool to be more stable, but it makes sense to add the usual innards to the 5yd for the sake of longevity. Especially if the kilt is intended to be worn often. I wouldn't think the 5yd pleats not be cut, and perhaps can't anyway due to the stitching/construction. Some canvas shouldn't add bulk at all.

.... (sits and waits to read from those who know)

[Dollander]

I am also curious what the kilt makers have to offer....

I'm frankly surprised none of them ever responded to this. But from what I've read on this forum, essentially it's the stabilizer that's strapped to your body and the wool just sort of floats over it. So yes, if you want the kilt to last, you can't rely on the wool to take the stress of the straps. I gave my simple 4- and 5-yard RevK kilts a polyester lining inside the 2.5" wide waistband (to which the two primary straps and buckles are attached) to help prevent it from stretching. Not a traditional stabilizer by any means, but I knew if I relied completely on the wool, it would gradually distort from the strain. Whereas I wore each those three kilts two or three times a week for six months, and have so far not seen any indication that they're losing their structural integrity.

[bonnie heather]

When I make 5 yard kilts, I don't do pleat cut-outs and I don't make a straphole.

I do the inner construction the way I do on 4 /5 yard box pleated kilts..... waist stabilizer, steeking and
3" wide canvas. I do canvas on the aprons, and lining for the aprons and back. I sew a buckle tab on the right hand side to go with the apron strap.

Next I sew the other buckle tab 1" in from the far edge of the under-apron.
Then I sew an inner strap as done for box-pleated kilts.

[Michael A]

Thanks Bonnie.

Since this was made with a strap hole rather than a hidden strap/buckle, I will preserve the one that is there. But in all other respects I shall follow your tips.

Thanks again,

Michael