Single seam trews

[figheadair]

There has been a lot of discussion over the years of the fact that proper military trews (and civilian trews cut to match) should only have an inside seam. I've been musing on this assumption and find myself asking why and when this dictate arose?

Examples of original Highland trews that I’ve examined were all piece made from sections of tartan which helped them fit more tightly.

Modern trews, military of otherwise are in effect tartan trousers despite the tradition of calling them trews. Their cut is slightly different to contemporary civilian trousers but the earliest example of proto-modern trews I’ve been able to find are these c1830 ones held in the McCord Museum, Montreal. I’ve always assumed that they were military, whether that is the case or not, they have two seams. Bear in mind that they and early military trousers were issued and so would have had to be general sizes, in effect tartan pantaloons.



So when and why did the single seam tradition arise? I can’t be sure of the when yet but suspect the why was the introduction of double width cloth which would have negated the need for a second seam.

[Bruce Scott]

I recently spotted these 1947 military trews on eBay and they have outside seams:



There are additional photos here: https://www.ebay.ie/itm/An-Original-...QAAOSwU1FZ8yR1

[Luke MacGillie]

Is the single seam some sort of a throwback misremembered tradition going back to the bias cut trews of the 16th thru early 18th centuries, were you would have a seam up the back of the leg?

[figheadair]

Is the single seam some sort of a throwback misremembered tradition going back to the bias cut trews of the 16th thru early 18th centuries, were you would have a seam up the back of the leg?

Who knows but the only two pairs of 18th century trews I know of were both piece-made from sections: the Hynde Cotton suit and one in private hands.

[Luke MacGillie]

To perhaps muddy the waters, leather breeches, especially those for folks riding horses, those are made rather different than normal breeches, there even being a special class of tailors dedicated to just making them, they are made with no interior to the leg seams.