General Question on Proper Fit in the Front with the Apron

[shamrock715]

General question on fit in the apron.

When I tried on a kilt for the first time, I tried on a 38 & a 40. It didn't matter which size it was, I ran into the same problem of seeing my junk in the front because the apron didn't lay flat. Seemed tight in the front. Is this an issue of how tight I buckled one of the buckles and would be alleviated with adjusting them or is this a fit issue from my body type/shape and will be alleviated with a properly measured and custom made kilt?

Any input on this would be helpful.

Thanks,
Matt

[RichardtheLarge]

General question on fit in the apron.

When I tried on a kilt for the first time, I tried on a 38 & a 40. It didn't matter which size it was, I ran into the same problem of seeing my junk in the front because the apron didn't lay flat. Seemed tight in the front. Is this an issue of how tight I buckled one of the buckles and would be alleviated with adjusting them or is this a fit issue from my body type/shape and will be alleviated with a properly measured and custom made kilt?

Any input on this would be helpful.

Thanks,
Matt

Matt,

Guys in N. America in general and the States in particular will very often wear the kilt at a non-traditional height: the old guidelines suggest that the top should be level with your navel and the bottom should be level with the top of the knee cap. Most people have enough stomach that this height adjustment will cause the apron to hang correctly.

More often than not, you will see guys wearing kilts at their “jean waist”, several inches below the natural waist. Sometimes this causes the knees to be hidden entirely from view, very much disrupting the intended visual effect! This is especially true if the kilt is otherwise tailored with adequate length to the individual’s height.

Another consideration is that many of the off the rack kilts will be lighter, thinner fabric than 13-18 oz. wool.

Finally, a sporran hanging at the correct height will obfusticate the issue you’re describing. Indeed, at least one historian has suggested that the traditional hanging position of the sporran was in part to provide groin protection.

[tokareva]

I don't know what's going on ,but I'm sure there are many including myself who wish they had the same problem.

[Jumpmonkey]

That's an interesting issue, I can't say I've run into it myself, with either the more hip-worn utility-type kilts I've worn, nor with my more traditionally styled Casual Kilt, worn at the navel. But as Richard said, if nothing else the sporran "has you covered" so to speak.

[shamrock715]

Matt,

Guys in N. America in general and the States in particular will very often wear the kilt at a non-traditional height: the old guidelines suggest that the top should be level with your navel and the bottom should be level with the top of the knee cap. Most people have enough stomach that this height adjustment will cause the apron to hang correctly.

More often than not, you will see guys wearing kilts at their “jean waist”, several inches below the natural waist. Sometimes this causes the knees to be hidden entirely from view, very much disrupting the intended visual effect! This is especially true if the kilt is otherwise tailored with adequate length to the individual’s height.

Another consideration is that many of the off the rack kilts will be lighter, thinner fabric than 13-18 oz. wool.

Finally, a sporran hanging at the correct height will obfusticate the issue you’re describing. Indeed, at least one historian has suggested that the traditional hanging position of the sporran was in part to provide groin protection.

The ones I tried on were at the belly button. Question on that, do you line it on center of the belly button or the top? I've read both. It seemed to be a matter of preference as to exactly where if you liked wearing it a little higher or not.

[RichardtheLarge]

The ones I tried on were at the belly button. Question on that, do you line it on center of the belly button or the top? I've read both. It seemed to be a matter of preference as to exactly where if you liked wearing it a little higher or not.

As it was explained to me, the real intention was that the top of the kilt would be above the bony ridge of the pelvis. When this occurred, the kilt would “hang” on the pelvic ridges without much risk of falling down. Similarly, old fashioned trousers tailored with a high rise to the natural waist will be much less prone to sliding down over the course of the day.

For me, this is approximately level with the navel, and “feels right” (top of the kilt at the center of the navel). Very heavy guys will have some traction of the navel downwards and may need to wear the kilt above the navel to get it to the natural waist.

I spoke with a Scot who insisted that the top of the kilt should cover a rib or two, and there are some portraits that support an “Imperial waist” at this height for a kilt. To my eye, this waist is just too high and the effect is a bit cartoonish. A waistband at navel level is already VERY high by contemporary standards, so I would avoid going higher out of deference to modernity and avoid going lower out of deference to tradition.

[RichardtheLarge]

Steve, I agree with you that “navel level” is problematic as far as sizing goes, but seems to correspond reasonably well with the Iliac crests of the pelvis in most men. This is what I’m getting at.

Based on your post, I am advocating for a mid-rise approach to the kilt, as I find that the other options look off. This is particularly true when a belt is worn...the full rise at that height looks completely disjointed to me, with the buckle resting several inches above the hips, and a belt worn at low rise with a kilt looks like a Wild West juxtaposition.

[The Wizard of BC]

There is one golden rule about measuring.

Use the method described by the person who will be making the kilt.

Each kiltmaker has a slightly different way of measuring and are used to that method.

Never send one kiltmaker a set of measurements from another kiltmaker. Never use what you thing is right. If you want your kilt to fit a particular way but the kiltmaker describes how to measure another way, you will probably not get a kilt that will fit, so find another kiltmaker.

The anatomical waist is actually the smallest part of the body. A kilt with a 2 inch rise, worn at the anatomical waist will have the top of the kilt 3 to 4 finger widths below the bottom of the breastbone.

I'll repeat. All Traditional kilts - ALL TRADITIONAL KILTS - will be made to be worn at full rise and the bottom of the Fell area to be at the crest of the hips or buttocks.

If you wish to wear your kilts somewhere other than the anatomical waist you will need to find a kiltmaker who makes mid rise kilts. Very few are prepared to do this.

[Tarheel]

The only time I've had the problem you described, was when I tried to wear my kilt after I had gained too much weight. The apron and under apron didn't span correctly or fall forward as intended. My kilt that allows for extra diameter doesn't give me any issue.

[shamrock715]

The only time I've had the problem you described, was when I tried to wear my kilt after I had gained too much weight. The apron and under apron didn't span correctly or fall forward as intended. My kilt that allows for extra diameter doesn't give me any issue.

That makes sense to me. I'm 6 ft, 200 lbs but my belly is a little bigger than my hips so I think it's causing the apron to do that.

Thanks for the tip!