Again a “split” question

[Dutch piper]

Hi everybody.
Advice on how to split the measurements of the kilt must be the most asked question on this forum.
I sure hope you’re not getting tired about these questions.
Although I have made several kilts already (probably about 15 kilts) this is my first kilt with such a big difference in Hip/waist size.

I have a man with large hips....
waist: 43,5
hips: 53

I have come up with the following splits:
waist: 22 apron, 21,5 pleats
hips: 25,75 apron, 27,25 pleats

Are these acceptable?

Kind regards from the Netherands,
Tómmes

[The Wizard of BC]

Just some personal notes.

I like to take a couple of things into my thinking about splits.

One is the method that I am using to make the kilt.
The Tartan I am using may require me to adjust the splits.
And the size of the person I am fitting.


If I am making a kilt in accordance with TAoK I may choose a different split than if I am using a different method. A kilt made IAW TAoK will have an outer apron that is slightly more than 1/2 of the waist circumference.
Other styles may have aprons of almost any width.

When calculating the hip splits the Tartan may come into consideration. If pleating to Sett you want the pattern equal on both sides and the same stripe down the center of the back as goes down the center of the front. This may cause you to adjust the rear hip split.
Calculate your pleats and that will give you the rear hip split. Then adjust the front hip split as necessary.

In general I will increase the waist front and the hip rear splits for larger guys. This will usually give just a little more ease to the kilt.

[Barb T]

I have a man with large hips....
waist: 43,5
hips: 53

I have come up with the following splits:
waist: 22 apron, 21,5 pleats
hips: 25,75 apron, 27,25 pleats

Tómmes

Hi Tómmes,

You're right - these are not common measurements. Can you give us a little more information on his shape? Where does he carry the weight in his hips?

• Does he have a lot of weight in the back (what is sometimes referred to as "behind the counter") - i.e., do his buttocks stick out a lot in back, with the small of his back recessed (so that the small of his back and buttocks make a prominent "S" curve when viewed from the side)?
• Or does he carry his weight more on the sides of the hips, like saddlebags, and has a flatter butt?
• Does he have a prominent belly? If so, did you measure his hips directly around his body or over a towel to fill the space below his belly?

Glad to help, but I want to give the right advice for his shape!

[Dutch piper]

Hi Barb,

He carries his weight mostly on the side of his hips.
He doesn’t have a prominent belly at all.
He does have a bit of weight in the back but not extreme. I think it's evenly divided between the side and the back.

kind regards,
Tómmes

[Barb T]

OK - here's what I would be thinking if I were making this kilt.

• Normally a guy as large as your fellow has a belly that sticks out in front, and his direct hip measurement would be similar to or smaller than his waist. In such a case, I typically add several inches to the hip measurement so that it is at least an inch more than the waist measurement and then split the measurement evenly between apron and pleats. That way, the kilt hangs straight down from the waist in the front and doesn't pull in under the belly. That won't work for your fellow, because his direct hip measurement is actually much larger than his waist, and you've indicated that he doesn't have a prominent belly.
• A waist-hip differential of 9.5" is on the higher side, but it's actually quite common in kilts that I make for smaller guys who are really athletic (narrow waists, muscular butts) or for women. The overall measurements for your fellow are a lot bigger, but the differential is similar.
• I would never use a hip split that is more than 1" bigger in the pleats unless 1) the differential were a lot bigger than this (e.g., the 17" waist/hip differential in my own band kilt...) or 2) the person had really prominent buttocks, which this fellow does not. Using a split that is more than an inch bigger across the pleats in the hips puts too much into the back of the kilt at the hips and results in "the wave" unless someone has the chubby buns necessary to fill out the pleats at the hips. Even in my own band kilt, the split in the hips is only 1.5" bigger in the pleats than in the apron.

So, here's what I would use for your fellow:

waist: 22" apron; 21.5" pleats
hips: 26" apron; 27" pleats

That's 2" of taper along each side of the apron and underapon edges. When you line up the tartan stripes for basting the shaped part of the apron and underapron, you'll need to be careful to stretch and smooth while you're basting. It will look all puckery, but it WILL smooth out (I assume you're working with wool) when you steam press those areas over a pressing ham.

Holler if you have other questions, and let us know how it turns out!

[Steve Ashton]

Would it be possible for you to post some pictures of your customer for Barb to get a better idea of what you are looking at?

[Barb T]

I agree with Steve - it would help to see both a front and a side picture with shirt tucked into a pair of trousers.