What is a Doublet?

[OC Richard]

Questions come up fairly regularly on various threads involving this thing called a "doublet", in traditional Highland Dress.

Many people might say "oh, I know what a doublet is, it's the thing they wear in the Army" and they would be correct.

Here's the style of doublet worn by pipers in the Scottish regiments beginning in the 1840s and well into the 20th century:



Though nowadays people think of the doublet as an Army thing, the doublet is one of many elements of military Highland Dress that had a civilian origin. In the second half of the 19th century the doublet was by far the most common civilian Highland jacket. The growing popularity of the Prince Charlie Coatee after its introduction c1900 has seen the old civilian Doublet steadily decline, though it is still available from many Scottish (and Pakistani) makers.

The defining things that make a doublet a doublet are the skirts, which on most old doublets are functional pockets, perhaps making up for the lack of pockets in the kilt. I've heard them called skirts, flaps, and tashes, often with the addition of Inverness as in "Inverness skirts". I don't know what the Inverness connexion is. (Tashe is bag or pocket in German.)

I can't trace the evolution of the doublet very well, beyond noticing that such flaps were common in Renaissance jackets, and flaps akin to the Renaissance ones can be seen in some early Highland portraits.



However throughout most of the 18th century and for at least the first quarter of the 19th century the jackets seen in Highland Dress tended to follow Saxon/European fashions. It's as if the doublet lay dormant, for over a century, only to appear in some images of pipers in livery around the 1830s.

In the first half of the 19th century military piper's dress varied tremendously by battalion. Some pipers were put in ordinary soldier's uniform, some pipers were put in the reversed-colours uniform of the military band, and some pipers were put in civilian livery such as they would wear in the employ of the aristocracy.

Pipers in the latter category were often dressed in doublets, at a time when all ranks of the Army wore coatees. (Here the skirts' origin as pockets is very clear.)



Doublets took a firm, and permanent, foothold in the Army in the 1840s when The Cameron Highlanders dressed their pipers in dark green doublets, the first in the Army. (Green was the facing-colour of the Camerons, and musicians traditionally wore reversed colours.)

By the mid-19th century all Highland regimental pipers were in dark green doublets. Scarlet doublets were introduced for all ranks of the Highland regiments in 1855. (As you can see these were originally double-breasted and had slash cuffs, while the dark green piper's doublets retained the gauntlet cuffs.)



Here is the classic 1868-1914 soldier's doublet



Around 1980 all ranks of all the Highland regiments were put in dark green doublets, and when the Royal Regiment of Scotland was created the dark green doublet became the Number One Dress of the entire Scottish infantry.

Today, pipers and soldiers alike in the dark green doublets originally worn only by the pipers of the Camerons



What I don't know is why the doublet became so popular with civilians at around the same time it was beginning to be adopted in the Army (1840s). From c1850 to c1920 the doublet was by far the most popular civilian Highland evening and piper's jacket. Unlike in the Army where the doublet had a standardized cut, in the civilian world there was bewildering variation. The skirts were always there, and the gauntlet cuffs usually were present too, but there was endless variety in the jacket front, with various lapel, collar, and button arrangements.

Here is a typical civilian doublet c1860. It was the style to button only one button at or near the top and let the jacket front sweep open. Note how in this case the front edges of the jacket are in line with the front edges of the skirts; the jacket is cut to be worn as it is.



Here's a doublet designed to be worn buttoned



Here's an early doublet with very short lapels designed to be buttoned only at the top and swing open; interesting to see four buttons on each gauntlet cuff



This very interesting photo shows three distinct doublet styles L-R

1) civilian doublet edged in what the British call "lace" and Americans call "braid". This style became extremely popular around 1900.

2) plain civilian doublet in the most typical cut

3) military-style doublet, very popular with civilian Pipe Bands. This costume is nearly identical to that of military pipers, the doublets and accoutrements made by the same firms, making civilian and military pipers difficult to distinguish.

4) a slightly more home-grown version of the civilian military-style uniform (he wouldn't be mistaken for a military man)



Modern gents in Highland Evening dress: few are the men who still wear the doublet, in a roomful of Prince Charlie coatees

[Father Bill]

An incredibly useful post - as so often you do! Thanks, Richard!

[Richrail]

Thank you Richard, I always enjoy learning new things.

[CollinMacD]

As an American Civil War Historian, I can surmise that during the 1840 through 1860 (beginning of the American Civil War), there was in the U.S., England, and France, a large interest and increase of organizing civilian military marching bands and rifle drill teams for competition on the town greens. Most popular were Ellseworth's Zouaves, the Phoenix Zouaves, Irish Rifles Team, Duryea Zouaves, Meagher's Zouaves and the list goes on. Many of these Civilian based groups used a Civilian made flamboyant Military or Militia type outfit, travelled around the country doing competitions for best bands and drill teajms.

In the U.S. many of these civilian uniforms, were NOT associated with US Military at that time, took many dress cues from the more flamboyant British, French and Prussian Regimental dress uniforms, using many bright colors of reds, greens, blues, grays etc. For exempt the New England 1st Regiment, which usedcivilian band musicians adopted the British Bearskin Headgear, and wore grey and blue uniforms modelled after the French. Although they eventually became state militia, as the sense of Civil War grew near, they did start out as Civilian, the same with the 5th Massachuesetts, which contained the Salem Zouaves, who were a drill team with short red Zouave style jackets, with French gold embroidered kepis, also had the Leather Shako too, and grey trousers with white cross leather straps, and carried Enfield Tower Rifles. While the rifle drill teams work the Shako, with French Hunting Horn, and blue uniforms. Some uniforms of the civil groups became Militia Groups on the call to arms of 1861 and carried into the Civil War.



So in Scotland or England I would guess this trend toward military influenced uniforms carried over to the civilian world.

Even womens dress had a military flavor during the mid-19th century. I am sure you heard of the French Zouaves, well womens fashion had the short Zouave Jacket, with matching skirt


A Zouave Soldier, 5th NY.



So, I know this is a little off the subject title, but I think the influence of the Military from earlier military clothing changed and influenced civil dress, especially as military activites became popular for civilian rifle drill team and marching band competitions in the mid 19th century, which did carry over to the early 20th century. After WWI is these competitions died, less the High School Marching Bands. However, to this day we still see the influence of Military Style design, in both women's and men's clothing lines. From the trench coat to the Navy Pea Coat, it is considered fashionable.

[kingandrew]

Richard,

You note that Renaissance-era jackets have flaps that are similar to the various styles of Highland doublets. I would add that the form-fitting short jackets of the late Medieval and Renaissance periods were in fact called "doublets," to differentiate them from earlier, longer styles such as the "cotehardie." Many early (1500s-1600s) portraits of kilted aristocrats (such as the one in your post) show them wearing Shakespearean doublets, which would have been the contemporary style.

The Tartan Revival that followed the lifting of the ban on kilts and Highland dress involved a Romantic revival of what were seen as earlier styles. It seems likely to me that the Victorian doublet styles were originally conceived as connecting to an earlier tradition that had been interrupted.

Military styles have certainly had a major impact on menswear in general--just think of the prevalence of khaki, waist belts, trenchcoats and the like. With Highland wear, the gap in civilian styles during the proscription period meant that the only active kilt wearers when the garment was legalized again were soldiers. This meant that military influence on traditional Highland dress has been perhaps even more pronounced than for Saxon wear. The cross-influence of military and civilian doublets may be an example illustrating this point.

Just a few thoughts.

Andrew

[figheadair]

The Tartan Revival that followed the lifting of the ban on kilts and Highland dress involved a Romantic revival of what were seen as earlier styles. It seems likely to me that the Victorian doublet styles were originally conceived as connecting to an earlier tradition that had been interrupted.

Andrew, that's not correct. Highland Revival (broadly 1784-1840) clothes closely followed the fashion of the day. From c1815-40 there were significant changes in style every couple of years,. At the end of that period there was a move away from tartan jackets to plain ones and the development of the style we can broadly describe as a Doublet.

[OC Richard]

the form-fitting short jackets of the late Medieval and Renaissance periods were in fact called "doublets" ... Many early (1500s-1600s) portraits of kilted aristocrats (such as the one in your post) show them wearing Shakespearean doublets, which would have been the contemporary style.

However that portrait is from the early 18th century. Highland styles appear to have lagged behind those in England.

...military influence on traditional Highland dress has been perhaps even more pronounced than for Saxon wear. The cross-influence of military and civilian doublets may be an example illustrating this point.

For sure nowadays the perception is that many elements of civilian Highland Dress have a military origin.

However in most cases things thought to have originated in the military actually appeared in civilian Highland Dress first, and were later adopted in the Highland regiments.

For example, the doublet complete with its defining characteristics (the flaps, the gauntlet cuffs) evolved in civilian Highland Dress and were later introduced into the Army, through the civilian piper's kit adopted by the Camerons in 1841.

The entire Highland costume, the kilt, plaid, sporran, brogues, hose, crossbelt, sword, bonnet, and the rest moved as a complete whole from civilian Highland Dress into the Army.

The near-certain exception is the feather bonnet, if the story of its origin is to be believed.

[OC Richard]

In the U.S. many of these civilian uniforms...took many dress cues from the more flamboyant British, French and Prussian Regimental dress uniforms...

Most pertinent to XMarks of course are the uniforms of the 79th New York State Militia





Their 1858-1861 dress uniform is fascinating, in that not a single part of it exactly corresponds with what was worn by the Highland regiments of Scotland at that time (or at any time).

Rather than doublets they wore jackets of a unique and complex cut. Their Glengarries had two-row dicing. Their sporrans had an interesting five-lobe cantle only seen in the USA.

Some of the things like the red & white diced hose with marl turnover cuffs, and 18th century style buckled shoes, can be seen in the contemporaneous The Highlanders Of Scotland.

[CollinMacD]

Most pertinent to XMarks of course are the uniforms of the 79th New York State Militia





Their 1858-1861 dress uniform is fascinating, in that not a single part of it exactly corresponds with what was worn by the Highland regiments of Scotland at that time (or at any time).

Rather than doublets they wore jackets of a unique and complex cut. Their Glengarries had two-row dicing. Their sporrans had an interesting five-lobe cantle only seen in the USA.

Some of the things like the red & white diced hose with marl turnover cuffs, and 18th century style buckled shoes, can be seen in the contemporaneous The Highlanders Of Scotland.

Although the 79th NYSM, Camron Highlanders, where one of several of the militia groups that I was talking about. They did have kilts, but never wore them when called into muster. The did have and wore trews during the Battle of First Manassas. Kilts were left behind. The uniform jacket worn when mustered in was the New York State Militia Jacket with Waterbury NY State brass muffin buttons. Uniformed Jacket piped with light sky blue, jacket was navy blue. After the battle of first Manassas, the 79th regrouped and camped in Alexandria, VA. It was then their Commanding Officer was replaced with Colonel Isaac Stevens, who was a regular US Army officer. The 79th did not like this, they barracked their camp, resulting in amutiny. Their camp was surrounded by the Army of the Potomac, cannon and rifles pointed at them, and they surrendered accepting Colonel Stevens. Several were court-martialed and spent time in prison. As a penalty, the regiment forfeited their regimental colors. During one review the 79th put a Camron plaid on a stick and used that as its Regimental Flag. The 79th, as of March 1862 uniform complied with US standards, under McClellan General Order 1, but did still wear the NYS Militia Jacket until most wore out by 1863. At the battle of Oxen Hill, 1862, Chantilly, VA, Now General Stevens was shot through the mouth, near a fence line as he picked up the US Colors and his last words were, "Onward Highlanders".

On other tidbit of US Civil War, General Lew Wallace, always carried a piece of Wallace Tartan in his vest pocket, especially at the Battle of Monocacy, where after the battle he removed it and waved it after the battle facing his troops.. As you know, Lew Wallace later wrote the book, "Ben Hur".

[Orvis]

As an American Civil War Historian, I can surmise that during the 1840 through 1860 (beginning of the American Civil War), there was in the U.S., England, and France, a large interest and increase of organizing civilian military marching bands and rifle drill teams for competition on the town greens. Most popular were Ellseworth's Zouaves, the Phoenix Zouaves, Irish Rifles Team, Duryea Zouaves, Meagher's Zouaves and the list goes on. Many of these Civilian based groups used a Civilian made flamboyant Military or Militia type outfit, travelled around the country doing competitions for best bands and drill teajms.

In the U.S. many of these civilian uniforms, were NOT associated with US Military at that time, took many dress cues from the more flamboyant British, French and Prussian Regimental dress uniforms, using many bright colors of reds, greens, blues, grays etc. For exempt the New England 1st Regiment, which usedcivilian band musicians adopted the British Bearskin Headgear, and wore grey and blue uniforms modelled after the French. Although they eventually became state militia, as the sense of Civil War grew near, they did start out as Civilian, the same with the 5th Massachuesetts, which contained the Salem Zouaves, who were a drill team with short red Zouave style jackets, with French gold embroidered kepis, also had the Leather Shako too, and grey trousers with white cross leather straps, and carried Enfield Tower Rifles. While the rifle drill teams work the Shako, with French Hunting Horn, and blue uniforms. Some uniforms of the civil groups became Militia Groups on the call to arms of 1861 and carried into the Civil War.



So in Scotland or England I would guess this trend toward military influenced uniforms carried over to the civilian world.

Even womens dress had a military flavor during the mid-19th century. I am sure you heard of the French Zouaves, well womens fashion had the short Zouave Jacket, with matching skirt


A Zouave Soldier, 5th NY.



So, I know this is a little off the subject title, but I think the influence of the Military from earlier military clothing changed and influenced civil dress, especially as military activites became popular for civilian rifle drill team and marching band competitions in the mid 19th century, which did carry over to the early 20th century. After WWI is these competitions died, less the High School Marching Bands. However, to this day we still see the influence of Military Style design, in both women's and men's clothing lines. From the trench coat to the Navy Pea Coat, it is considered fashionable.

Colin - I am not sufficiently expert to comment on U.S. Civil War civilian and military fashion (except where the U.S. Marine Corps is concerned), but I can say that during the 18th century military fashions often followed what was popular in civilian fashion. One didn't see civilians walking around wearing mitre caps or fur grenadier caps, but soldiers did copy civilian styles in coats, breeches, gaiters, perukes, hats, etc. I believe this trend continued into the 19th century.

Incidentally (and certainly having nothing to do with Highland dress), the illustration of the bandsmen wearing bright scarlet frock coats has nothing to do with U.S. militia, but is a depiction of the U.S. Marine Band (The President's Own) in November, 1863 during their trip to Gettysburg, Pennsylvania with President Lincoln to participate in the dedication of the U.S. Military Cemetery. Since its founding in 1798, the Band has maintained the 18th century tradition of wearing full-dress coats of reversed colors (scarlet with blue trim) compared to the dress coats worn by other Marines (blue with red trim). Marine Corps uniforms in the Civil War period were mandated by the Uniform Regulations of 1859, which largely followed civilian fashion trends (as well as being influenced by French military fashion, as were the rest of the U.S. military, including militia and home guard units, such as Zouaves). The bandsman with the clarinet is Principle Musician/Leader of the Band Francis Scala, and the individual with the mace and busby (made of not of fur, but of black Astracan lambskin) is Drum Major John Roach. The Marine officer wearing the undress blue uniform in the center is 2dLt Henry Clay Cochrane, who was assigned by the Colonel Commandant of the Corps to escort the Band (which then had no commissioned officers) on its trip to Gettysburg.