How do you go about it as a potential mill customer?

[bookish]

I have made some initial requests for quotes on tartan weaving. I have enquired about D.C. Dagliesh and Martin Mills.

D.C. Dagliesh does not work with private individuals and refers people to clan.com. I assume any business that has a relationship with D.C. Dagliesh could do this. I asked a CLAN representative about cost, whether or not custom dyeing is an option, and if I could buy samples of their stock threads. I was told that being supplied stock threads was not an option, and I can imagine scenarios where colors change subtly based on seasonal availability or cost of yarn production.

I was a little disappointed by this process, but I can see several scenarios regarding why the mill would prefer to not talk to those who are not familiar with the business. I am sure it takes time to educate individuals, and passing that burden onto middlemen who do kiltmaking means the kiltmaker may convert the person who made the request for information into a customer, or at the least make a small commission or charge a fee for the work of ordering fabric the way the mill would like. I assume a business with a relationship with D.C. Dagliesh might be able to get sample yarns from the mill based on the relationship they have, whereas I might not.

I did not see any statement on the Martin Mills website that they do not take orders from private individuals, and I made an enquiry. The first response for any request for information seems to be, "Are you a business or an individual." This is from a sample size of 2 responses out of 2 requests. I have yet to hear back after stating that I am not a business.

In my requests, I ask for the minimum order and cost per meter or yard for double-width 16oz wool tartan that is custom woven, and if custom dyeing is an option, what are the additional costs associated with that.

So, with the state of the industry as it is, how do you go about contracting tartan weaving as a non-business entity?

I would love to get to know what each mill has to offer, and to find out what each mill charges for these services, and I would like to come off as respectful and not demanding. I understand that many individuals have developed professional relationships with mills, so a non-professional being able to make such requests and place orders for themselves means that kiltmakers and shops don't get the chance to convert sales from those non-professionals.

How do you all view the quest for contracting tartan weaving as a private individual?

Thanks for your thoughts!

[Tobus]

I've only done one custom mill run as an individual (others were co-ordinated through a kiltmaker). It was my experience that the larger mills prefer not to deal with individuals. If they'll even talk to you, their price will usually indicate that you should look elsewhere.

Have you talked to anyone at Andrew Elliot Ltd. or Prickly Thistle?

[Flotineer]

If you have a kiltmaker in mind, maybe just get them to do it for you. As a kiltmaker, they’re in the trade. Mine got thread samples and everything - relayed to me through her. Then, I ordered far more than a kilt’s worth and kept the excess beyond my kilt.

[DCampbell16B]

You may want to consider contacting a weaver rather than a mill for a special weave as you are interested in. Peter MacDonald is on this forum, and might be able to direct you to someone you could work with.

That said, to make an kilt first time there are thousand of tartans avaliable now to get you started. Find something similar to what you have in mind.

[bookish]

You may want to consider contacting a weaver rather than a mill for a special weave as you are interested in. Peter MacDonald is on this forum, and might be able to direct you to someone you could work with.

That said, to make an kilt first time there are thousand of tartans available now to get you started. Find something similar to what you have in mind.

I am not sure I have enough context about the industry as a whole to understand the distinction between a weaver and a mill, though I think Tobus's response to me probably points in that direction. I appreciate the advice to find an off-the-shelf tartan, as it were, to get started with.

I am trying to look ahead for the purposes of financial planning, though I suppose I might have enough information to generate a ballpark figure to aim my savings toward. I do want my tartan to be the best that I can afford with colors that match my intention and design, and the more information I have, the better I can realize that goal. I suppose I'll just save up what I think it might cost (or to what my budget is) and make my enquiries at that time.

[Kitfoxdave]

There are several companies that have a path for custom tartans. USA kilts and St Kilda Kilts are two that work with more than one mill. Typical minimum order is about 10 meters. They both have pricing information online, as well as tartan designer software tools.

You can have custom dye colors done, but there is an upcharge for that.

Youtube has some USA kilts videos of the process of custom tartan. These will hopefully help you.

I have been collecting embroidery thread to determine the final colors I want for my custom tartan, and plan to send them along with my request when I get to that point.

There is an individual weaver on the west coast, that does small custom weaving jobs like making a sample of a sett... it has been a while since I looked into it last year.... but a Google search for Custom weaver in USA will likely bring up her details.

Good luck with your project!

[bookish]

If you have a kiltmaker in mind, maybe just get them to do it for you. As a kiltmaker, they’re in the trade. Mine got thread samples and everything - relayed to me through her. Then, I ordered far more than a kilt’s worth and kept the excess beyond my kilt.

This is reasonable advice. Thank you.

[bookish]

Have you talked to anyone at Andrew Elliot Ltd. or Prickly Thistle?

Early in my research, I had messaged Clare of Prickly Thistle about the Climate Stripes tartan, but not about a custom weaving. I like the messaging and branding of Prickly Thistle. I have not looked into Andrew Elliot Ltd. Thank you for the suggestions!