Inverness Cape?

[jsrnephdoc]

It's often VERY cold here in Montana in wintertime. We approach the number where °F and °C are the same integer (that's –40° for those who don't remember their high school math and science classes) almost every winter once or twice. I probably wear a kilt more often in Winter than in Summer because I do so for occasions where looking good is appropriate (for example, we have a Symphony Orchestra in Bozeman that plays WAY above its weight, and just the fact that I show up kilted brings attention from our outstanding conductor and guest soloists in the post-concert meet and greet lobby sessions).

The last time I was in Scotland I spent a tiny amount of time inquiring about an Inverness Cape (wandering into Kinloch Anderson after touring the Royal Yacht Britannia). Although they sell them, they did not have any in the store. I've never actually SEEN one (an ex band piper showed me his rain cape, but except while being worn, it's basically almost a shapeless piece of plastic).

I've not seen any discussion of Inverness Capes here with posts newer than a decade ago, but the few I've read have some enthusiastic endorsements. Of course, the real item from Scotland is extraordinarily pricey (I suspect I could add 2-3 VERY nice kilts to my collection for the same cost as a tweed Inverness Cape).

I do have a good American wool overcoat, so this certainly isn't something I NEED desperately, but I'm just curious. Have any forum members much experience wearing one while kilted in REALLY cold weather?

[Father Bill]

I chose instead to get what is sometimes called a "Coachman's Cape". It looks like an Inverness, but has sleeves under the shoulder cape for additional warmth. Also a little longer. Bought it in a heavyish wool tweed.

Tricky to find, but worth the difference in my opinion.

[jsrnephdoc]

I chose instead to get what is sometimes called a "Coachman's Cape". It looks like an Inverness, but has sleeves under the shoulder cape for additional warmth. Also a little longer. Bought it in a heavyish wool tweed.

Tricky to find, but worth the difference in my opinion.

I did a web search for "Coachman's Cape." Every one of my "hits" was for a shade of Benjamin Moore paint. I suppose if I apply enough "coats" so that my skin cannot breathe, I may not get cold, but then again I probably wouldn't survive the paint poisoning

[jsrnephdoc]

I meant to ask what you mean by "heavyish." One forum member told me he had a 22 oz (he called it "military weight" I think) kilt, and that if the straps were buckled it would stand up by itself. But my American overcoats, while not tightly woven like a kilt, is heavier.

By any chance, do you have any pictures of your Coachman's Cape? Would you wear it at < 0°F over a kilt and tweed jacket/waistcoat?

Thanks so much,

[Father Bill]

I did a web search for "Coachman's Cape." Every one of my "hits" was for a shade of Benjamin Moore paint. I suppose if I apply enough "coats" so that my skin cannot breathe, I may not get cold, but then again I probably wouldn't survive the paint poisoning

Try "Coachman's Coat" and see what comes up.

Try some of the "steampunk" suppliers too. They seem to like the style.

[Pleater]

I have a number of capes, cloaks and variations on same, ranging from embroidered silk through velvet, light and heavy wools, I even had a red ridinghood, or reedencote with liripipe hood, but the mice got that some time ago now.
They are fairly easy to make if you have the space to lay out the cloth and there are a fair few patterns around now, for costume and historical re-enactment.
We d not get severe weather here though, so it is possible to wear a complete circle cloak which would not be of much help in high winds, it would just fly with the wind.
The colder and windier the weather the more tailored a garment you need.
Actually, now I think about it our own dear Steve Ashton sent me a pattern for one - some years ago now.
The main thing is to get the shoulders and upper body right, so it is large enough and the lower parts fall correctly, not pressing against your legs front or back. It should hang rather like a bell and you should be able to firstly keep it closed and secondly walk about in its shelter.

Anne the Pleater

[jsrnephdoc]

The colder and windier the weather the more tailored a garment you need.
Actually, now I think about it our own dear Steve Ashton sent me a pattern for one - some years ago now.
The main thing is to get the shoulders and upper body right, so it is large enough and the lower parts fall correctly, not pressing against your legs front or back. It should hang rather like a bell and you should be able to firstly keep it closed and secondly walk about in its shelter.

Anne the Pleater

Do you have a sense of what fabric weight (tweed or solid kilting fabric) would be correct for an Inverness or Coachman's Cape?

Thanks so much.

[Pleater]

Do you have a sense of what fabric weight (tweed or solid kilting fabric) would be correct for an Inverness or Coachman's Cape?

Thanks so much.

I have so much fabric these days it is a long time since I considered buying any for a specific purpose, but I think that an inverness really needs a softer weave than a kilt though still a fairly hefty and close woven wool of about the same weight as a good kilting fabric.

Ideally I would line the main part, probably use interfacing in the collar, behind the fastenings, and as rain these days seems to be much heavier than a decade or two ago, I would consider making a waterproof layer - probably removable and just a little longer than the outer cape part and without seams - I have been let down and water let in by seams too many times.

I'd line the cloak for ease of movement as wearing layers which cling to each other is so wearing after an hour or so.

Anne the Pleater

[jsrnephdoc]

I have so much fabric these days it is a long time since I considered buying any for a specific purpose, but I think that an inverness really needs a softer weave than a kilt though still a fairly hefty and close woven wool of about the same weight as a good kilting fabric.

Ideally I would line the main part, probably use interfacing in the collar, behind the fastenings, and as rain these days seems to be much heavier than a decade or two ago, I would consider making a waterproof layer - probably removable and just a little longer than the outer cape part and without seams - I have been let down and water let in by seams too many times.

I'd line the cloak for ease of movement as wearing layers which cling to each other is so wearing after an hour or so.

Anne the Pleater

Are you aware of anyone who makes Inverness Capes (or Coachman's Cloaks) who would be capable of following those recommendations? I imagine the Coachman's Cloak would be bigger challenge, since it has actual sleeves

[Pleater]

Are you aware of anyone who makes Inverness Capes (or Coachman's Cloaks) who would be capable of following those recommendations? I imagine the Coachman's Cloak would be bigger challenge, since it has actual sleeves

You'd need to be clear what you actually want made,
To me a coachman's cloak is the garment with multiple tiered short shoulder capes intended to protect a driver perched up on the box out in all weathers - there was a cartoon of the Duke of Wellington - I think it was, wearing one - it was definitely insulting, being way below his station. I would expect inbuilt sleeves with deep buttoned cuffs which could be drawn down over the hands and refastened to protect the hands and arms - the reins would be drawn inside the sleeves through the slit where a couple of buttons were left undone.

The more upper class Inverness, Ulster and the like with the cape sleeves or outer cape you could have made to your own requirements unless you wanted something very specific to a particular character or date/location.

The number of people able or willing to undertake such work is limited these days - the political situation where certain things are taxed when they cross borders doesn't help at all. The actual construction of garments is not that difficult if you can make a trial attempt, called a toile, and fit it, or find a suitable pattern - there are many more costume and experimental garment patterns available there days.

Actually I have a pattern I first used way back - probably in the 1960s and 70s, just by the desk at the moment. I'm not recommending trying to find it - it is an antique after all but I'll see if I can photograph and upload it here- the front and back of the envelope, so you can see what it entails.
I started sewing garments for dollies almost 70 years ago, - my photo is rather out of date - but the hair is still the right colour. I can make just about anything from any era, having done re-enactment for English civil war, various costumes, morris kit - but it can't be beyond the wit of man or woman to set to and make stuff again. It used to be the only way to separate the soft layer from the gravel.
Right - first I need to find something to create a digital photo.

Anne the Pleater