I have noticed that the front side of my kilt (and trousers for that matter) hang about 1.5 inches lower than the back side. Has anyone used a corresponding front-to-back kilt drop length differential to even out hem line drop? Or does this just not matter? Thanks.
The Northern Appalachian Highlands of Southern Ohio
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You might want to consider wearing the front of the kilt a bit higher, to match the height of the back. If the front rides lower, it may be under your overhang -- not attractive. Kilts are normally worn considerably higher than trousers.
As one who can't wear kilts or ,once, p**ts at normal height, I live here at hip level. I have found that wider belts (2.5 inch here) reduce the tilt. I know it is right when I stand erect and neither the front or back of the kilt is touching my legs. Kilts like the Utilikilts that are designed for hip height wearing are about an inch and a half longer in back than the aprons to hang level after the rear makes it's sideways excursion ( aka - the taper/sewdown area) from beltline to hip. At one time even they offered a dipped front for the "love the pints" guys. This is why kilt lengths are best measured at the sides where drop adjustments (usually) aren't made for guys hips.
Last edited by tundramanq; 14th November 12 at 06:29 AM.
slàinte mhath, Chuck
Originally Posted by MeghanWalker,In answer to Goodgirlgoneplaids challenge:
"My sporran is bigger and hairier than your sporran"
Pants is only a present tense verb here. I once panted, but it's all cool now.
As it was pointed out traditionally made kilts are designed to be worn quite high. At the natural waist, or just under the ribcage.
However, today most men have never worn anything at their natural waist. It just feels so different from the jeans we are use to wearing.
In trousers the height from the crotch to the top of the waistband is called 'The Rise'. There is also a part of a kilt called a Rise but on a kilt it is the distance from the top strap to the top of the waistband.
Using the first definition we can look at how and where on the body a garment is worn.
In a traditional kilt it is assumed that you are going to wear the kilt at Full Rise. If you put your thumb at the side of your body just under your ribs, and bend in, towards your thumb you should feel your thumb go into a hollow. This is your natural waist. It is up about kidney level. In fact, I have heard that this was thought to be beneficial because it kept the kidneys warm.
When you wear a kilt at Full Rise the top of the kilt is pretty close to level with the ground. The top of a traditional kilt is made level with the hem.
What we see so often today is men who do not know, were never taught, how to wear their kilt. They assume, that it is worn like jeans.
This causes three problems.
The first that dropping the top of the kilt also drops the hem down around or below the top of the knee. If all you have seen are the more modern kilts like Utilikilts, this looks normal as they are designed to be worn with the hem below the knee like baggy cargo shorts.
The second problem is that the 'Fell', or the part of the kilt that is tapered and sewn down, is designed for full rise and should end right at the widest part of your hips or butt. Wearing the kilt lower drops the bottom of the Fell below the butt. This is one of the causes of the 'stage curtain' effect you see in the pleats of some kilts. The pleats of the kilt should form a smooth single curve. Sort of like looking at a barrel.
The third problem is that when you lower the waist of the kilt it will begin to slope forward. This is how the human body is shaped. The more pronounced stomach a man has, the more his waistband slopes in the front.
A traditionally made kilt, worn down at the jeans waist, will always have the hem significantly lower in the front than the back.
If you have purchased a kilt that was made like a traditional kilt then I'm afraid there are only three things you can do. Wear the kilt up high, where it was designed to be worn...have it completely re-made from scratch....or sell it and buy a new one.
As has been pointed out, I make all my kilts taking the position of the waist that my customers wish to wear their kilt. I measure for my kilts and make them to account for a lower waist position if the customer wishes.
The most noticeable difference in my kilts is the slope built into the waistband. I have made kilts for some customers who are what I named "Gentlemen of Substance" with the front of the kilt 2",3", and sometimes even 4" shorter in the front than in the back.
If you would like to see a full explanation of slope and how to measure for it may I suggest you take a look at the measuring video I did. you don't have to look at the whole thing because it was made to teach my customers how to measure for their Freedom Kilt at home but the part on the waist position begins about 6 min. in.
You can also watch this on youtube by clicking here.
Last edited by Steve Ashton; 14th November 12 at 10:59 AM.
Steve Ashton www.freedomkilts.com Skype (webcam enabled) thewizardofbc
I wear the kilt because: Swish + Swagger = Swoon.
Nothing really new David. I have been making kilts like this for over 8 years.
The video was made and has been available for over two years now.
I know that because of the change to the forum most of you do not visit my site anymore. That's OK, they have been my two biggest years yet. So I offer my advice and help here when I can.
Steve Ashton www.freedomkilts.com Skype (webcam enabled) thewizardofbc
I wear the kilt because: Swish + Swagger = Swoon.
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