Double width vs. single - pro/con??

[unclevenus]

Just seeing what are the pro's and cons of getting a kilt that is single width vs. double. Do most kilt weavers prefer you to have x amount of yards if you pursue the route of single?

Here's what I'm looking at:

140cm (56”) double width vs. 27.56"

Not sure if buying 4-5 yards of material at 27.56 albeit cheaper, would make for a decent kilt.

[madmacs]

Cost... Single width was expensive when I had to order it... Although that was a good while ago...

[unclevenus]

Wouldn't the single width be cheaper? Also, would a weaver typically prefer you to have double? Not sure on how they actually make the kilt, but my past two were double. Just wondering if getting single may save money but also make for a smaller kilt instead as the down fall.

[unixken]

If you were making a kilt, an 8-10 yd single width fabric might work better with asymmetric tartans that can't simply be "ripped and flipped" to join the two halves, as is done with a 4-5yd run of double width where the tartan sett is the same frontwards as backwards, so to speak. Also, I would think that manual loom setup time versus the amount of time the loom is then running will vary between the two widths, which could also be a cost factor. But these are merely guesses, on my part.

[Dixiecat]

It may seem counter-intuitive, but double width fabric is cheaper. The cost of setting up the loom, etc. is less when doing it all double width.

Not sure what you mean by a single width fabric making a smaller kilt. If you're making a 4 or 5yd kilt, it'll take the same amount of of either width fabric to make a 4 or 5 yd kilt. Just that with double width, you buy less, but cut and join to make up the kilt length.

Granted, there is a waist-knee length limitation because of the 27" width on the single width. But, it is a very tall person indeed (or a tall rise!) that would encounter the limitation.

[The Wizard of BC]

It is possible that you may be working with bad info.

To make an 8 yard kilt you would need 4 yards of double-width fabric or 8 yards of single width fabric.

The total square yards is the same.

The problem is that single width is usually more expensive per linear yard. It is not unusual for single width fabric to cost almost as much, per linear yard, as double width.

So, for enough to make one kilt, the total would be almost twice if you go the single width route.

[unclevenus]

Thanks, Wizard. ​ I think you answered my question.

[piperdbh]

Are you having it custom-woven, or ordering from a weaver's already-woven-and-on-the-shelf stock? Weavers have different minimums of each width that they're willing to produce.

[unclevenus]

Custom woven. Something they'd need to do from scratch. That was the piece that I omitted. I was looking to buy and saw that there was a 4 yard minimum of 27.5 inch and then got curious about it. The last time I ordered some, I had an 8 yard kilt made but the requirement was 10 yards if I am correct. It adds up quickly, doesn't it? :beer:

[M. A. C. Newsome]

Custom woven. Something they'd need to do from scratch. That was the piece that I omitted. I was looking to buy and saw that there was a 4 yard minimum of 27.5 inch and then got curious about it. The last time I ordered some, I had an 8 yard kilt made but the requirement was 10 yards if I am correct. It adds up quickly, doesn't it? :beer:

From the kilt wearer's point of view the only difference between having a kilt made from a length of single width cloth vs. one made from a length of double width cloth is that the kilt made from double width cloth will have a hidden seam buried inside one of the pleats in the back which you will never see unless you go hunting for it. In other words, not much difference.

Since you are talking about custom weaving your tartan, the thing you have to consider is price. Yes, double width is more expensive up front because there is a higher minimum order requirement. But the cost per yard ends up being less; you get a lot more material for your money.

However, that is only a good deal if you have a need for the additional material. If all you need is enough to make one kilt, then the single width option, though it costs more per yard, would be the more affordable way to go.

But in terms of your finished kilt, no there is no real difference.