Who actually OWNS a Scottish hand-sewn?

[Jimmy Carbomb]

Out of interest, and in order to see the level of experience on this site, who actually owns and wears a "real" hand-sewn kilt? You know the ones that I'm talking about. Big woolen monster with the three straps. A taper so form-fitting that it looks like it was painted on. Pleats that are so straight and uniform, and a sway that's so solid that you're drooling just thinking about it. Arrr, arrrr, arrrrr!!!!

There are plenty of posters on the site that have never worn one of these with regularity, and it's REAL tough to get them to understand the difference between these and "the pretenders".

Don't get me wrong... I own a load of "casual kilts", and I wear them often. But comparing some of the stuff around here with a "traditional" is insulting, misleading, and false advertising.

If you DON'T actually own one of these, PLEASE don't boost your post numbers on this thread. This is a thread to examine the noticable differences.

[bikercelt1]

I have kilt I ordered through the local shop, "The Scottish Country Shop", in Portland Or. (really great folks by the way) I also have two Scottish casual weight kilts that I bought through "the Scottish Lion" catalog. My good kilt has a lable in it that say "Locarran" (sp. ?) which I believe is the mill the fabric came from. When I ordered it the order form said "Strathmore" which I belive is the term for the weight which is 13 oz. The pleats lay "flatter" than the pleats on my p-v kilt or even the two Scottish casual so that at first glance it appears thinner, but when I move and the pleats start to swing it's obvious that this kilt is much more substantial. The pleats are absolutely knife sharp and crisp where the pleats on my p-v are "softer". I suspect that the "softer" edge of the pleats on the p-v is what gives it the "fuller" look. Between the two kilts the older wool kilt looks brand new while the relatively new kilt looks like I've had it for years.

Different kilts for different occasions, but in a purely critical analysis there is a difference between a traditional wool kilt and one made of p-v.

Jamie

[Kiltbear]

I have a handsewn WOOLLEN one made for me by a firm in Inverness - Chisholms. They did Guy Ritchies for his wedding to Madonna. I was measured in the shop for it.
I have been rebuked b4 for denigrating PV so heaven forfend that I should suggest that again here.
I just cant believe how many peeps here wear Polyplastic?
Polypropylene?
Prettypolly?
Pollyanna?
Pollypot?
Pollyglot?
Pollyfilla?
Pollyputthekettleon?

(Lie mode on) Aint polyviscose just a fab material?
(Lie mode off)

[beverlonian]

I have a 16oz. wool kilt (MacNeill of Barra) made by Alex Scott & Co of Aberdeen. The following is from their web-site:-

"The last floor is the workroom the domain of our Master Kiltmaker, Margot Brodie.

Margot has over thirty years of experience having started her apprentiship in kiltmaking at the age of 15. Although no formal qualifications existed then, Margot served a five year apprenticeship under the guidance of Master Kiltmaker Jim MacLaughlan whose skills were gained in the disciplined environment of the Gordon Highlanders Regiment (one of the most distinguished regiments in the British Army and whose base was founded here in the North East of Scotland).

Such is Margot's longevity and reputation with the Company that families return time and again to Alex Scott's knowing that subsequent generations can be assured of that same expertise."

When I ordered my kilt I was measured by Margot and confess her workmanship is superb. However, because of cost considerations, I only ever wear this kilt on special occasions. No way would I wear it every day.

[macwilkin]

I own a 13oz., 8 yd. hand-sewn Cumming Hunting/Buchan District, made by certified Scottish kiltmaker Darren Purse, who manages the Toronto branch of Hector Russell. Darren does EXCELLENT work, and Hector Russell is fantastic when it comes to customer service.

Jimmy is quite right -- there is just no substitute for a hand-sewn traditional "tank" in all its glory.

Cheers!

T.

[Canuck]

I have a blackwatch that is handsewn from Scotland and two of my own. I stitched down each and every pleat by hand 36 on one (Dress McCrae,) 38 on my Hamilton. I got it down to 20 min. per pleat. I hemmed up the double pleat on the apron by hand, hand stitched the button hole for the inner strap and hand stitched the linen curtain inside. The only thing I did by machine was serge the cutaways in the pleats at the hip. These kilts are close to the 9 yds of wool required to make a traditional kilt.
My casual kilts are sewn by machine.
Cheers
Robert

[Freelander Sporrano]

I own a 13oz., 8 yd. hand-sewn Cumming Hunting/Buchan District, made by certified Scottish kiltmaker Darren Purse, who manages the Toronto branch of Hector Russell. Darren does EXCELLENT work, and Hector Russell is fantastic when it comes to customer service.

Jimmy is quite right -- there is just no substitute for a hand-sewn traditional "tank" in all its glory.

Cheers!

T.

Your not wrong there! My Modern Gunn 8 yarder is the proof.I love to bit's.

[Jimmy Carbomb]

Different kilts for different occasions, but in a purely critical analysis there is a difference between a traditional wool kilt and one made of something else

Jamie

A point well taken throughout the entire response. It's quality in the kiltmaker!

I have a handsewn WOOLLEN one made for me by a firm in Inverness - Chisholms.

With the point being that the kiltmaker is the real difference. Scottish, Swahili or other. Skill is universal but not universally practiced.

"The last floor is the workroom... the domain of our Master Kiltmaker, Margot Brodie."

What does that say about the social skills of kiltmakers?
Again, isn't it amazing what it takes to make these things properly? The truth is in the details!

...made by certified Scottish kiltmaker Darren Purse, who manages the Toronto branch of Hector Russell. Darren does EXCELLENT work, and Hector Russell is fantastic when it comes to customer service.

You get what you pay for! A casual advertised as a casual, or 4 yarder is just that, and has its purpose. A "traditional" advertised as such must have the care and skill put into it. An 8-yarder listed as such has some flexibility. Know the difference before you shell-out the bucks.

I have a blackwatch that is handswen from Scotland and two of my own.

Is it possible to sew them and make them real close? Yup. Can anyone do it? Obviously not. There's a skill in the kiltmaker, a patience in the process, and an eye for traditional details that make it tough for most. Could Robert do one in wool and have it indistinguishable? I would put a bet in his favor!

[Mychael Sporrano]

I have two UK made kilts presently in hand. One is a 13 oz. Kinloch Anderson in their Corporate tartan, while the other is a 16 oz. kilt in Campbell of Argyll Weathered tartan purchased from Nicolson Highlandwear.

As for those kilts not presently in hand, I have one 6 yd hipster on order from TFCK in their AR-1 black wool and will soon be ordering a fourth traditional kilt, most likely in an Irish tartan. I am feeling the need for a little bit of color.

While I am leary of wearing my traditional kilts for everyday use, I do wear them around more than most, I suspect. I am not fond of having things around that I do not use, and I love how they look and feel as compared to my casuals: sumptuous, decadent, sensual... Since my wife Karen REALLY likes seeing me in a traditional kilt, I like to give her something to think about from time to time.

Having never worn P/V, I can only compare wool to my Pittsburgh Kilts in 100% 13 oz cotton or a lighter weight poly/cotton blend in the case of my MARPAT kilt. When my pair of P/V kilts arrive from Bear in late Sept./early Oct, I will have something to add to this ovine/cellulose debate.

Where the 13 oz brushed cotton is concerned, it feels more like 15-16 oz fabric since Jeff at PK washes and preshrinks the fabric before he fashions it into product. The kilts hang beautifully, and I love their heft. The majority of casual kilts that I see on the various sites look thinnish in comparison, making me hesitant to order one. [If I am wrong on this point I would appreciate being told differently.] Of course, cotton does not move anything like wool, but unlike kilts fashioned from relatively stiff canvas fabrics, it does have some swish.

As JimmyC wrote, casuals have their place. They are practicalk and more affordable, but in my opinion there is no comparison between cotton and a properly made wool kilt of good weight. When I think about adding another casual to my wardrobe it makes me feel good in the same way that adding a needed tool to the work shop can do. But now that I have worn one, the thought of adding another traditional wool kilt REALLY gets me stoked.

That said, I really am looking forward to my tartan kilts from Bear. One will be an 8 yard Ramsay Blue, the other a 4 yd Grizzly Cut in the Warrior tartan. [Other than to say that it looks purpleish, I am not even sure what the Warrior tartan looks like since the example was pretty dark.] As I stated above, I am in the mood for some color!

Mychael

[Richard]

I do, 13 oz 8.5 yds Anderson Tartan you can tell the difference straight away it hang much better and swings gracefully. I also have a casual kilt, yes it is nice and it looks OK, but you can't beat the real thing
Richard