Best material for a test kilt

[crinis]

Hi all! I'm going to be making a kilt using the instructions in "The Art of Kiltmaking" by Tewksbury and Stuehmeyer. But before I spend the rent on high-quality tartan fabric, I'd like to make a test kilt. I am not much practiced at sewing (though I have an extensive support group of sewers for when I get stuck), so I want to make really sure I've got it down first. I've read of a few people doing that here on the forum, but no specific thread (that I could find) about what fabric works best. I was wondering if there was a specific material that cheap and behaves like 15oz wool tartan?

Also, for those of you who have made test kilts, what do you do with it when it's served it purpose?

Thanks in advance!

[brewerpaul]

Most kilt makers will tell you nothing feels the same as good kilt wool so with that in mind you may look to Poly viscose in a 13-15 ounce weight. The other option is finding an inexpensive solid color wool similar to a tatan. There are many fabric stores you can look at and possibly find a end of the season deal on wool. Your idea to make a test kilt is a good one, it will allow you to excperince the learning process on a lesser priced fabric. Best of luck and post photos of your progress.

[The Wizard of BC]

My honest opinion would be to go ahead and buy the Kilt Tartan fabric that you really want. Make your first kilt from the best fabric you can afford.

Nothing acts, feels, and sews quite like good kilt wool. Not only will you be able to make a better first kilt you will have a good, wearable kilt when you are done.

The part that worries most people is the sewing of the Fell. There is nothing to be afraid of here. If you make a mistake you can simply take a line of stitches out and start again. You have not cut your fabric and good kilt wool is very forgiving. You can sew, rip out and re-sew it many times without hurting a thing. You can't do this on lesser quality fabrics.

So save your pennies for a while and go ahead and purchase the fabric you really want.

[chasem]

Gotta back Steve on this one.

If you're still too worried about screwing it up, go with a remnant or some other sale tartan from a reputable weaver.

But honestly if you're patient and attentive enough, your first kilt should turn out to be one that could be worn for a very long time.

Marton Mills wool generally tends to be less expensive than many competitors - browse through Scotweb's materials and prices via the link at the top of the page and compare materials to see if one works for you.

If that's all still too much, remnants can be found for $32 CAD/meter here: http://wooltartan.com/discount-tartans/ . But be warned - I've bought material there twice and have been unhappy with the results. The first time was for a practice kilt, as you are looking into, so I wasn't as worried about it.

However, the second time I ordered from there, having forgotten about the first, the material I got was unacceptable and the 4 yds I received with the intent of making an 8yd kilt was unusable as such because there was a difference of nearly 1" between where tartan elements ended up at the waistband side when the two sides that were to be joined were put together. It wasn't that bad on the first order, but I'm not a fan of that kind of inconsistency and poor quality. Especially since I could have paid only $15 more per meter and gotten an excellent quality tartan from Marton Mills or House of Edgar.

So I guess the moral is listen to Steve - you want wool so it behaves well. Buy the best you can afford now

[plaid preacher]

This topic comes up fairly regularly, and the advise from those who know best is always the same - get the best quality fabric you can, and you won't be disappointed. Another option, would be to make a box pleat kilt using the addendum that Barb and Matt Newsome have prepared. The box pleat kilt uses half the fabric of a traditional one, so there is some saving there, and not quite as many pleats to sew. I am hoping to start one for my daughter soon. Just a thought.

[Grizzled Ian]

In addition to what Steve says, another advantage of using real tartan rather than a solid colour, is that with tartan you have these nice lines in the fabric that are an excellent guide both for tapering the pleats in the vertical sense, and for aligning the lines across the kilt. From memory, Barb's advice to me was to make a few tartan kilts before tackling a solid colour one - I too brought the experience of sewing, ooh, about half a dozen buttons to Kilt Kamp last year for my first go at a kilt.

And do have a look at Scotweb's clearance table for pieces of fabric in usable sizes. Recently there were about 90, granted not all of them enough for a kilt, even a box pleat, and some still quite expensive, but very well worth the look.

Best wishes for your endeavour,

[crinis]

Most kilt makers will tell you nothing feels the same as good kilt wool so with that in mind you may look to Poly viscose in a 13-15 ounce weight. The other option is finding an inexpensive solid color wool similar to a tatan. There are many fabric stores you can look at and possibly find a end of the season deal on wool. Your idea to make a test kilt is a good one, it will allow you to experience the learning process on a lesser priced fabric. Best of luck and post photos of your progress.

I have some PV swatches coming in the mail. I think I can afford to make one out of PV, then save up for the spendy ($700+) wool. Thanks!

[crinis]

Well shoot I guess I might have to go with tartan then. Time to start socking away the pennies.

[The Wizard of BC]

When you get right down to it, there is only one way to learn how to make a kilt. Start at the beginning and take it all the way to the end. And then do it again, and again.

So, if you start with good fabric your end result will be a good, wearable kilt. If you think of it as just practicing the only result will be a bunch of fabric, that you paid for, that you can't even wear. Using practice fabric is actually a waste of your good, hard earned money.

The stitching is just one part of the whole. There is the proper basting and pressing. (Again, good kilt wool will take and hold a crease far easier and better than anything else).
Then there is the internal construction. Getting that right is something you just have to do with your hands and eyes. Hand and eye coordination is what you learn most of all in kiltmaking.

This is why those of us who have done it always seem to give the same advice. Over the entire process you will improve your stitching with every pleat. By the time you finish your first, you will be experienced enough to know where you made errors and be ready to start your second, better kilt, while you enjoy wearing your first.

If you had spent good money on practice fabric you have just wasted your money on something that you will never wear.

[brewerpaul]

Ill have to throw in the towel and agree with all the kilt makers here when it comes to just going for the good fabric. My suggestion was based on economics and a chance to get a bit of practice if you havent sewn much. This leads to what has been said, if you dont wear it what good is it. I can say in my learning to sew Ive done the same thing, used the fabric I wanted for the project. I started with the never have touched a machine sewing of the apron and the pajama pants and that was my practice. 5 waist coats, 1 Inverness Cape, 1 kilt jacket, 1 English style hunting vest quilted on the inside, 1 Tweed jacket from a fleece jacket pattern, 3 shirts, and a couple of caps later I can say I never made any for practice, I made them to wear. Even at that I considered each one a learning project so the next one would be better. So when I do finally jump into the kilt making Ill also do it with material I will wear. Cant argue with the sound advice of those with the experience.