Resizing a 5.11 TDK

[HuDonald]

Hey rabble,

Just looking for some advice on taking-in my 5.11 TDKs. I lost a little weight and a couple inches around my mid-section. I have a few 38" (vanity size) TDKs that I'd like to down size a couple of inches.... Now, I don't tailor myself, and I do not have a sewing machine, so I'm not looking to do it myself.

However, do you think it's a good idea to take it to a reputable tailor that does alterations on *cough* trousers/pants *cough*?
And if so, how should I tell the tailor to do it? Where would they take it in from?

If not, how should I go about it?

Thanks in advance!

[azwildcat96]

I'm sure there are experts here that will suggest that you could alter a TDK...

I purchased 2 of the original production run TDK's, and a couple years later I lost a few pounds. Rather than try to alter them, I put them up on ebay, and nearly doubled my money.

As much as I like the idea of a TDK, my biggest complaint is that they aren't adjustable. I won't buy one again because of this.

Anyway...good luck in whatever you decide to do.

[ratspike]

IMO, like a Utilikilt, they're not really intended to be altered. I think 5.11 really screwed the pooch with the waist on these things by not including any adjustment.

First you'd need to add new snaps, but only at the waistband. The apron snaps will just be for decoration.

Next you need to remove the belt loop next to the apron, which may be sewn under the waistband. If that's the case then the waistband needs to be opened up, the belt loop removed, and then sewn back down. If you have enough space to relocate that belt loop it might look odd, as it'll be much closer to the back loops than on the left side.

Now that your waist size has been corrected, your waist-hip relationship has changed. Maybe it'll be golden, maybe it'll be too snug.

The location of both right side pockets relative to the apron edge won't be as intended. Taking a couple of inches out of the waist could have the apron overlapping them, which would make them look really goofy and awkward to use, if they're really usable at all.

So yeah, I wouldn't even bother. Just sell 'em here or on ebay and you'll likely get most if not all of your money back.

[ratspike]

One solution you might try is to have some adjustment tabs sewn onto the sides of the waistband, like what you see on tactical pants. Something similar to what Kitanica does on their Gen II pants might square you away: http://www.kitanica.net/Gen2-p/023.htm

[HuDonald]

Ratspike,

That's an awesome idea! And about 1"-1.25" adjustment on each side, at 3 and 9 o'clock positions might not be bad. Even if they were placed at 4 and 8 o'clock.

Thanks!

[kiltimabar]

You could ignore the snaps and use Velcro on the front waistband.

[ratspike]

Trying to put velcro on the waistband would be a huge PITA and would end up being pretty halfassed. It also has the same potential problems with the apron edge overlapping the pockets. Again, these kilts really just aren't intended to be altered.

[akwusmc]

Bob,

If you won't mind a newbie chiming in, I'd like to make a couple of comments.

HuDonald mentions that his 5.11 kilts are from the first production run of 5.11 TDK's, as are mine. These kilts were manufactured as a direct result of overwhelming response to what was, at the time, an April Fools' joke by 5.11. After they decided to make the kilt available, there were some growing pains ...I had ordered 44" kilts (at my natural waist) and after I received them, they literally fell off me. So I had to exchange them for kilts smaller than my natural waist. To put it plainly, compared to a proper kilt, they are marginal (unless you happen to have an off-the-shelf body, which I don't!), but at the time I only bought them because I didn't know anything about kilts.

That said, I'm not sure that half-assed is that much of an impediment to using velcro to take up the waist of a TDK. If it were the other way 'round, then the snaps would be an obvious problem, but I would consider velcro to be a viable solution to the OP's problem.

Anthony

[ratspike]

Bob,

That said, I'm not sure that half-assed is that much of an impediment to using velcro to take up the waist of a TDK. If it were the other way 'round, then the snaps would be an obvious problem, but I would consider velcro to be a viable solution to the OP's problem.

Anthony

If it can't be returned or sold, and the wearer is willing to accept the compromises in fit and appearance, then you're correct. I'd leave the snaps undone and wear a belt before I'd try to deal with sewing on velcro. I still think adjustment tabs on either side of the waist is a much better way to take an inch or so out of one of these things.

[tundramanq]

I only see two routes I would take, both at the back center. The whole front and sides have too much going on to tamper with easily. A 3 inch total reduction would cause all the pocket placements to be aft about an 1/2 to 3/4 inch from the intended positions.

Quick and dirty - Seam out center back waistband and back apron leaving a narrower back apron but with a balanced look with a seam down the center.

The Second, harder way would be to separate the waistband across the back removing the two back center belt loop tops, reduce the waist band by 3 inches maximum (on my "32 inch" TDKs before this interferes with the cargo pockets.) Pick out the back apron sew down stitches and the back pleat edge stiches under the back apron. Iron out the back under pleat crease. Move the back apron edges over by half the waist reduction and pin it and the repositioned loops ( or maybe only use one at center ) and back pleats. Reattach the shortened waistband plus two back loops and then re-stitch the apron edge sew downs (from just below the band). Iron in the new back under pleats and stitch the knife edges. I attach the waistband first from experience as it is almost impossible to exactly get the waist band and rest of the kilt adjustments to exactly match at the waist - this allows unpinning and tweaking the apron edge placement with waist band and back laid flat in place so that there is no pucker on one or the other from the slight length mismatch that the pinning itself seem to create.
Add that you need to keep the upper attachment of the under pleat lined up at the waist attachment without the crease to help it lay flat. With two loops on the back apron, that were sewn through the whole apron and back pleat originally and must be dealt with - I suspect a tailors time may be more than the kilt is worth to get it all right. At the factory the belt loops lower attachments are sewn to the garment body first so that they are in the correct place when the waist band is sewn on. Then the "blank" waistband is attached and the waistband ends clipped, tucked and sewn at the same time. Undoing the waistband all the way to one end would result in holes at the old snap positions and a new set of snaps a the waist band as they go completely through band and (the lower ones) kilt body. ( This second route is me sharing all this entails as I worked my way through the process mentally. If I actually tried it I would end up "mental" ) I can set in shirt sleeves but it also makes me mental...won't go there again..


The first I would try. The second I would leave to "pros" only if a really treasured the particular kilt. I would be getting in over my head as I am a picky perfectionist and these exposed stitch TDKs seem stitch perfect.