Weathered and muted Tartans, Why?

[figheadair]

Richard,

Many thanks for the references re Old Colours. From them one may assume date of 1930-35 for their introduction unless they is mention in any earlier catalogue, from the 1920s for example.

What I find interesting is the mention in the Rowan's catalogue that the colours are a true match to those in use a hundred or more years ago. That of course places their reference at the height of Wilsons' manufacturing of tartan by which time they had perfected their standard colours and patterns but which were visually quite different from the reimagined Ancient range of the 1930s.

The 1949 date for Reproduction tartans rings a bell with me too. I used to have a Dalgliesh leaflet on the range but can I find it!

[figheadair]

Richard,

Many thanks for the references re Old Colours. From them one may assume date of 1930-35 for their introduction unless they is mention in any earlier catalogue, from the 1920s for example.

What I find interesting is the mention in the Rowan's catalogue that the colours are a true match to those in use a hundred or more years ago. That of course places their reference at the height of Wilsons' manufacturing of tartan by which time they had perfected their standard colours and patterns but which were visually quite different from the reimagined Ancient range of the 1930s.

The 1949 date for Reproduction tartans rings a bell with me too. I used to have a Dalgliesh leaflet on the range but can I find it!

Richard,

Many thanks for the references re Old Colours. From them one may assume date of 1930-35 for their introduction unless they is mention in any earlier catalogue, from the 1920s for example.

What I find interesting is the mention in the Rowan's catalogue that the colours are a true match to those in use a hundred or more years ago. That of course places their reference at the height of Wilsons' manufacturing of tartan by which time they had perfected their standard colours and patterns but which were visually quite different from the reimagined Ancient range of the 1930s.

This kilt is interesting because its colours are somewhere between the Reproduction and HoE Muted range but it dated to 1912-20, well before the founding of either company.

[OC Richard]

You're welcome!

Yes those colours are extremely interesting and reminiscent of HOE's Muted range, with the olive green and cherry-ish red.

It would be interesting to find out which mill started the "old colours" fad.

In the way of things, "old colours" were probably introduced by one mill, they got popular, then other mills followed suit.

Who has a collection of early 20th century tartan sample books? Of mid-20th century? Those would clarify things, I imagine.

Now if I could throw out a theory as to why these prettier colourways became popular in the post-WWI era:

I don't know about British fashion, but in the USA men's fashion goes through cycles which correspond to major wars.

After a major war, in which vast numbers of the nation's young men serve, men's civilian fashion veers from military dress. Young men have spent the last few years in dull drab tight-fitting uniforms and as soon as they get out of the service they want clothes that have a looser fit, more colour, are more fashionable, faddish, and snazzy.

In light of these wider trends in men's fashion one can see Scots who have spent years wearing drab jackets and dark military kilts being attracted to what one sees in the Highland Dress catalogues of the 1920s and 1930s: Evening dress featuring open-fronted Prince Charlie coatees in lovely blue, claret, and green and lightweight fine kilts in lovely pastel colourings. (These catalogues mention repeatedly that their kilts intended for Evening Dress are made from lightweight soft fine cloth. The men have had enough of wearing 22 ounce kilts!)