now I understand

[akaussie]

I have finally figured out why the pleats on my amerikilt get the happy wanders and sometimes have a directional problem after I have been sitting.
After reading Jimmy's post on the plain kilts he has made and the way he makes them, I measured the pleats and realised my kilt has a 3 inch reveal with only a 2 inch under (or hidden not sure which is right term)pleat!!! Deffinately going to ensure that my next kilt (whether made or bought dosent have that. Am I right in assuming that the deeper the hidden and smaller reveal = more pleat control???? As Jimmy said he does a 4inch pleat witha 1 inch reveal.
Cheers to all Andrew

[Jimmy Carbomb]

Andrew, there are some serious design problems with the AmeriKilt to where they really only look proper on certain body types. But when you have a LOAD of kilts that are pre-made and not custom-made to fit the waist-to-hip taper, then you're going to have some problems.

I know that Twenty-First Century Kilts makes an honest "Traditional" solid kilt. Hamish has one that I drool over everytime I see it. The pleats are like most of us are used to with kilts.

I just decided that I wanted to make my solids with the proper reveal (pleat part that shows), depth (part that's underneath), fell (sew down from the waist to hips), taper (flare from waist to wider hips) and wide/tapered/fringed front apron. Rather than try to get someone else to do it... I would just kick it out. Simpler and cheaper!

As for pleat control, that's pretty much determined with three simple things. Proper waist and hip measurements... proper fell length... and proper taper techniques. Even an AmeriKilt can look great on anyone if it's re-sewn to custom fit your measurements.

[akaussie]

Thanks Jimmy, I know that the solid kilt you made was traditional cut. would the same pleat set-up work if I made the kilt to sit where I would wear Jeans/shorts?
As I have a slight bulge on the stomach region If I were to make a traditional the taper would be interesting.
I have also found some cotton twill fabric thats the same as what my AK is made of, $8/metre so by going on your mesurements I can make 2 kilts for $40. If I make a mess of the first I havent wasted a lot of cash!
Cheers Andrew