Fabric Cost

[Brian Rose]

The next time one of us complains about the cost of tartan, consider this. I was at a friend's farm yesterday for shearing day. It's a small farm so only about 20 sheep were sheared. Most were sheared in about 15 minutes. The average ewe contributed about 5 lbs. ( roughly 2.2 kilos) of wool. The one rescue ewe that hadn't been sheared in two years had 10 lbs ( 4.5 kilos). That's before processing- carding and spinning. There's a lot more to do before one gets to tartan cloth.
She uses it for felting and sells some raw wool. All the leftover little chunks get swept up and sold as wadding for muzzle loaders.

[figheadair]

Most wool grown here is not of a suitable quality for making in to tartan. That aside, the price of wool has collapsed so much so that for many small farms, it costs most to shear than the wool is worth.

[stickman]

Yes, In places in Cumbria the price of wool is less than the cost of shearing. So now they are using the raw wool to control erosion. Seems like it works out good for that. They stake out a mat of wool over worn out areas of footpaths. The wool catches any soil and prevents it from washing away and plants are able to grow up through it.

[Patty Logan]

I dont know if this is true but I heard that wool can be used as insulation. is that true? would that be more viable?

[Tobus]

Most wool grown here is not of a suitable quality for making in to tartan.

Can you expand on this? Is it too coarse?

What is it typically used for, then?

[Pleater]

I dont know if this is true but I heard that wool can be used as insulation. is that true? would that be more viable?

Yes - it is also fire retardant so local fleece has been used for insulating sheds, homes and even camper vans as a 'green' option.
when made into 'roving' - the stage before spinning - it can be used for crochet, and the shapes are enclosed as the padding for quilts.

Anne the Pleater

[figheadair]

Can you expand on this? Is it too coarse?

What is it typically used for, then?

Generally, it doesn't spin consistently finely enough compared with Australian and New Zealand fleeces which it why most tartan has been woven with wool from those countries for the past 70+ years.

Scottish wool in principally used for carpets, Harris Tweed and some knitting yarns.

Lochcarron are currently working on a more sustainable sheep to wool cycle. At least some of their cloth is British wool (75% Scottish source), and will shortly be 100% Scottish wool. They will still need to use Antipodean wool for bulk weaving for some time to come but it’s a great start. I’m also working with them to achieve a coarser finish, more like older cloth, for my current project.

[Tobus]

I’m also working with them to achieve a coarser finish, more like older cloth, for my current project.

That was going to be my next question. Yes, I'm still stuck on the idea of "hard tartan" or a coarser, thicker, less refined, and more rustic cloth. I would love to see this implemented with Scottish wool!

[stickman]

Someone in the Lake District of Cumbria is making thick felt pads out of wool. They are for use in chimneys ( no longer in use ) to block out drafts, and loss of warm air.

[figheadair]

That was going to be my next question. Yes, I'm still stuck on the idea of "hard tartan" or a coarser, thicker, less refined, and more rustic cloth. I would love to see this implemented with Scottish wool!

PM me. I'll send you a sample once I have it in hand.