MacKenzie Frain Regulation Doublet -- a review

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

In 2009 I did two things which I had never done before. I sent my measurements off to someone I had never met, and ordered a fairly expensive garment. The first order went to Barbra Tewksbury, and as I have stated before, the resulting kilt was, and is, absolutely splendid. My next foray into the world of Made-To-Measure was with the firm of MacKenzie Frain, and the results were equally gratifying. For those not familiar with the term "made-to-measure" let me explain that clothing-- in this instance a regulation doublet and waistcoat-- can either be purchased off the rack in standard sizes, or custom made to fit the individual customer. Obviously anything custom made will cost more, but this is compensated for by a better (and more comfortable) fit. Custom clothing is referred to as "bespoke" if the entire tailoring process is the work of a single tailor or firm (as in the case of Saville Row where often one tailor will make the coat, another the trousers, and another the waistcoat). The term "bespoke" actually refers to the client selecting the fabric, which at that point is "spoken for". Bespoke has taken on a broader meaning, and is now applied to a totally custom made garment (or item, as in the case of custom coachwork on motorcars).

Between the cost effectiveness of an off the rack garment and the financial extravagance of a bespoke garment lies the realm of made-to-measure. In this instance numerous measurements are taken, the fabric selected, and the garment is made at a factory to a closer, and obviously better, fit than a rack size coming from the same company. In other words it is the difference between buying a car off the showroom floor, and ordering what you want from the dealer. Both serve the same utilitarian purpose, but one is far more personalized. As far as costs are concerned, the made-to-measure garment will cost about 50% more than a rack size, but only about one-third to one-half the cost of bespoke.

MacKenzie Frain offer both a bespoke and made-to-measure service, as well as rack sizes for most, if not all of their Highland attire. So, having decided that it was time to retire my old regulation doublet, I opted for a new, made-to-measure one. A phone call, and a quick exchange of emails, confirmed that not only could they provide what I wanted, but at a reasonable price (315 GBP plus shipping) and with a reasonable delivery date (ten weeks, but actually delivered nearly three weeks ahead of schedule). That sorted I printed the measurement forms from their website and headed off to a local tailor to be properly measured.

Let me say, right here, that this is the most important part of the whole transaction-- if the measurements are off, the jacket won't fit, and you'd have been better off buying off the rack. Finding a tailor to do the measuring is straight forward enough. A look in the yellow pages (try alterations or formal wear) should sort that out pretty quickly. My local tailor charged $10, which seemed more than reasonable to me.

I then faxed the measurements off to Scotland and settled in to wait.

Eventually the day dawned, and the jacket and waistcoat arrived. Having read the complaints of those who had been dissatisfied with UPS/DHL, etc. I had my jacket sent over by Royal Mail, which not only provided a tracking service, but managed to take only four days to make the trip from the UK to Staunton, Virginia. Duty was not assessed on the package.

But enough of the back story. The three "F"s by which I tend to judge clothes-- Fit, Finish, and Fabric-- are, like Caesar's wife, beyond reproach. The jacket and waistcoat fit like they were made for me, which they were. The detailing of the cuffs, flaps, and lapels shows a great deal of careful hand work, which explains why a regulation doublet costs more than a Prince Charlie coatee in the first instance. I had specified a slightly heavier weight black barathea and silk lapels, and this MacKenzie Frain supplied without a murmur of dissent, and the resulting jacket couldn't be better.

Is it worth the money? Yes. The total cost of the doublet and jacket, including shipping, was about the same as a good, off the rack suit if purchased from one of the more up market department stores, and less than the cost of a navy blazer from my local men's shop. So, based on my experience with MacKenzie Frain I wouldn't hesitate to recommend them to anyone looking for a first class product and service at what I consider to be a reasonable price.

For more details, go to their website: www.mackenziefrain.com

[davidlpope]

MoR,

Did you have it done up in a solid color or tartan?

Cordially,

David

[CMcG]

Pictures?

I aspire someday, when I finally finish school, to be able to afford some made to measure clothes! Enjoy your doublet

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

Oh, sorry I left that little detail out. The doublet is made from black barathea with silk lapels, and all of the details were handled most expeditiously by Mr. Blair Urquhart of MacKenzie Frain.

I would post a photo, but I don't own a digital camera. In the past I've borrowed a neighbors camera to take a photo, then had my neighbor email it to me so I could forward it to one of the Mods who kindly posted it for me. That just seems like a lot of work to post a picture of a coat better illustrated on the MacKenzie Frain website.

Perhaps when my buttons arrive I'll post something on the Heraldry and Tartans forum.

[Jack Daw]

I've viewed this site before and am impressed with their selection. I will keep this vendor in mind for future reference.

[svc40bt]

Did you order a black or white waistcoat? Black braid on the cuffs and tashes?

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

Did you order a black or white waistcoat? Black braid on the cuffs and tashes?

Black waistcoat, as I already have one that is white (except for a teeny-tiny splash of port). Braid is, of course black, and the buttons are (and will be when replaced) silver.

[MacLowlife]

MoR, Thanks for this. Their web offerings are lovely, if not strictly traditional in some of their detailing- light colored hose, ruche ties, fly plaids, etc. As you have shown, it is possible to do business with contemporary folk without necessarily buying their most contemporary goods. I suspect some X Marks member-vendor-sponsors have similar offerings, as do countless other outfitters. Did you have a particularly compelling reason to do business with Mr. Urquhart?

Any other X Markers who have a favorite tailor or outfitter? I have mentioned my own Sainted Mother, whose outside-the-family rates are prohibitive, and I am looking forward to unveiling a particular piece of tailoring from one of Our Own here on the forum, but I look forward to hearing more from the many wiser, more experienced Members here.

MoR, have you a particular event in mind to premiere this New Creation?

[McMurdo]

Congratulations and thank you for the wonderful review.

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

MoR, Thanks for this. Their web offerings are lovely, if not strictly traditional in some of their detailing- light colored hose, ruche ties, fly plaids, etc. As you have shown, it is possible to do business with contemporary folk without necessarily buying their most contemporary goods. I suspect some X Marks member-vendor-sponsors have similar offerings, as do countless other outfitters. Did you have a particularly compelling reason to do business with Mr. Urquhart?

Yes, I did. I had originally planned a five day break in Edinburgh, where I would have had my new Regulation Doublet made. Unfortunately I had to reschedule business in this country and had to cancel the trip. MacKenzie Frain came well recommended by a friend in New Zealand, so I did business with them.

Any other X Markers who have a favorite tailor or outfitter? I have mentioned my own Sainted Mother, whose outside-the-family rates are prohibitive, and I am looking forward to unveiling a particular piece of tailoring from one of Our Own here on the forum, but I look forward to hearing more from the many wiser, more experienced Members here.

I've long been a customer of Stewart Christie in Edinburgh, and they would be my first port of call for bespoke work. As I've mentioned previously, Barbara Tewksbury made me a very good kilt and she also gets a 4-STAR rating. Trickers on Jermyn Street used to do my shoes, although my next pair of Highland evening shoes will probably be made in the good ol' USA by our very own DWFII, one of the best cordwainers in North America. If I was going to deal with only one firm in Scotland it would be a toss up between Stewart Christie, Campbell's of Beauly, Kinloch Anderson or MacKenzie Frain.

MoR, have you a particular event in mind to premiere this New Creation?

I'll definitely wear it to the Silver Tassie dinner in the Spring.