Project Clanranald WoB

[xman]

I have recently contacted DC Dalgliesh Ltd. about a custom run in their K1 kilting cloth in Wilson's of Bannockburn Reproduction colours. I am looking to have woven MacDonald of Clanranald tartan and I want to gauge the interest of other possible participants. I think the colour set is very striking, especially after having seen one of the judges at the BC Highland games wearing them. The cost should be £74.80 = $118.25 CDN = $113.15 USD for eight kilting yards plus duties and shipping. A terrific price. We would need four willing parties to get this under way. I am also considering a run of the lighter weight 11oz K7 cloth and we could get a similar deal on this if enough people are interested. So who's in?

X

[MacMillans son]

X, I know you can do the math, but that's less than $15 per yard for custom run heavyweight tartan fabric! We cant buy stock low grade tartan for that. What's the deal ? Am I missing something ?

[Hothir Ethelnor]

I am guessing that that is the price for single width yards and doesn't include shipping and possible customs which will increase the cost to closer to $20 per single width yard. $40 for a double width yard of tartan is an acceptable wholesale price which can be marked up 90% to the 70 odd dollars we are used to seeing. Customs fees will likely jump the price a few dollars. But they aren't a given if a small amount of tartan is ordered. BTW Dalgliesh tartan custom woven double width (minimum quantity of 30 yards) is no more expensive than Lochcarron's stock select line of tartan. Private individuals can order from Dalgliesh at wholesale prices whereas you have to order through a company to get wholesale pricing on tartan from Lochcarron or House of Edgar. X is being generous and not marking up the tartan at all, which means essentially you are seeing wholesale pricing.

I will be in for 4 yards double width and 8 yards single as I want a mil. box pleated kilt and a pipers plaid. That adds up to around 8 yards double width but I would prefer to have the tartan as I specified above if someone else also wants an unbroken 8 yards of single width for a kilt.

Since this will be a custom run could you request a sett size of around 9 inches? I really like a larger sett size.

Also be aware that you will need to cover shipping from X to yourself in your calculations. (right X?)

[xman]

X, I know you can do the math, but that's less than $15 per yard for custom run heavyweight tartan fabric! We cant buy stock low grade tartan for that. What's the deal ? Am I missing something ?

It's £18.90 per double width(54") yard with a minimum order of 30 yards. Yes there will be duties on that. I should have been clearer about that.

X is being generous and not marking up the tartan at all, which means essentially you are seeing wholesale pricing.

More porecicely, X is being negligent about mentioning the other charges. I can't really absorb them all myself, but they won't be too much and it's still a terrific deal.

I will be in for 4 yards double width and 8 yards single as I want a mil. box pleated kilt and a pipers plaid. That adds up to around 8 yards double width but I would prefer to have the tartan as I specified above if someone else also wants an unbroken 8 yards of single width for a kilt.

Sounds good to me.

Since this will be a custom run could you request a sett size of around 9 inches? I really like a larger sett size.

Well I thought the 7ish" sett size would appeal to more potential buyers. If everyone else wants 9" I suppose I could be persuaded. I agree that the larger sett looks great on the apron, but delivers fewer or shallower pleats.

Also be aware that you will need to cover shipping from X to yourself in your calculations. (right X?)

As indicated, yes.

[MacMillans son]

That's a crazy deal X, congratulations!

As someone who has been following your "swatching the mail" thread, it's a bitter sweet occasion for you to finally dial in on a tartan. Any ideas for your next one???

I'm happy for you, keep us posted!

[M. A. C. Newsome]

Well I thought the 7ish" sett size would appeal to more potential buyers. If everyone else wants 9" I suppose I could be persuaded. I agree that the larger sett looks great on the apron, but delivers fewer or shallower pleats.

Actually, a larger sett size would equate to fewer, but deeper pleats.

Sorry, just wanted to correct that minor point.

[Hothir Ethelnor]

Well I thought the 7ish" sett size would appeal to more potential buyers. If everyone else wants 9" I suppose I could be persuaded. I agree that the larger sett looks great on the apron, but delivers fewer or shallower pleats.

Ah yes, I suppose that fewer pleats may have to be put up with but I have found that I can get 21 1" wide pleats around my 41" hips out of 8 yards of tartan with a sett repeat of around 9" and still have enough for nice under-apron pleats. Remember most commercial 8 yard kilts don't actually use 8 yards until the hips are around 45+.

And something worth trying is pleating to the reverse sett where each pleat is sett behind the "previous" one as far as pleating goes which yields an interesting effect. I understand Rocky at USAK has utilized this style with his 5 yard Wool kilts to pleasing effect. Check the pictures carefully between the pleats and the apron, the pleats look like a different tartan with the same colours.

http://www.usakilts.com/store/5yardwool_kiltpage.php

But if you want 7" sett size I'm still in.

[xman]

Actually, a larger sett size would equate to fewer, but deeper pleats.

Sorry, just wanted to correct that minor point.

I meant that, if not pleated to the full sett but alternately pleated to the blue and green blocks, which is how I would pleat this sett size, it would only use half the sett so more pleats, but shallower. Either fewer pleats if the whole sett is used for each pleat OR more but shallower pleats as is the case for the NS Highlanders.


Props to Wompet for supplying this image to the forum.

However, thank-you for piping in Matt. Keeps me on my toes.

But if you want 7" sett size I'm still in.

Good to hear. I could go either way actually and I partly really like the idea of the 9" sett for the alternate pleating opportunity displayed above which it provides.

[lethearen]

Do you happen to have pics of that colour set? It's a really great deal, and I might have to go in on behalf of one of my lady friends... but she may prefer Modern over Repro... but she'd have to see them to know

[xman]

Here are some of the Clanranald swatches I have gathered. Clockwise from the top are;
Lochcarron Weathered (this is the 7-7½" sett size)
Marton Mills Ancient
Geoffrey Tailor Modern (this is a 9" sett size)
House of Edgar Muted
Strathmore's Lochaber tartan in Wilson's of Bannockburn Reproduction colours is in the centre position. It shows the blue, green and black well.



Here is a judge from the BC Highland games wearing the Lochaber in Reproduction colours. Even in this crummy cell phone camera picture you can see the nice balance between the green and blue not available elsewhere.



This internet image of Strathmore's Fraser of Lovat shows the red better and, I believe, the correct white.