Piece of the month - What do you see

[Ryan Ross]

It looks arisaidesque to me, too (if that's a word). 22 inches seems skimpy for that though, but I saw what looks like a seam in one picture, and if it's woven by hand, maybe the lengths were joined to make a wider piece?

At any rate, it doesn't look to me like something a man would tend to wear, at least not in earlier periods; it may not be a piece of clothing at all, but I'd like to think that it is.

On another note, this seems an excelent thread idea. Thanks!

EDIT: And is there some kind of extra fringe sewn onto the selvedge at one point?

[xman]

... this seems an excelent thread idea. Thanks!

I must echo that sentiment.

now ...


In the first picture I see that a seam has been sewn on the 'upper' sample of the cloth, the bottom corner of this section is worn. This appears to be the 'right' side of the cloth, but has been made into the inside by turning the seem to what we would consider the 'wring' side. It may not have mattered to to the sewer at the time, but then again it may have. 'Right' and 'wrong' are from the kilt making perspective, but if this was an arisaid, turned 90º then this would be appropriate and turn the twill "per fess", thus 'appearing 'right'. The 'lower' sample seems to have a stain or discolouration running vertically beside the Black stripe.

In the second picture I seethe 'right' side of the cloth where two pieces have been joined.

In the third picture I see a wavy selvedge on the bottom as well as what I think is the other side, the 'wrong' side made 'outside' edge on the right hand side of the picture. Below appears to be another portion of the cloth that has a fringed edge.

The fourth picture shows the 'wrong' side of the cloth and the inside of the join?

The fifth picture shows a larger segment of the cloth revealing a change in the pattern at an outside edge?

The colours overall appear as though they may be faded from crimson to pink and olive to ochre, but the natural white looks very good so I wonder if this is true.

Perhaps I am confused on some points.

[figheadair]

I'd started a broad reply to a number of observations and questions but realised that there's a lot to deal with so I'll let the thread run for a while and wrap everything in a detailed post/paper.

At this stage it's suffice to say that this is:

First half C18th
Wool
Joined
A simple sett
Not incorrectly woven/faulty
Not particularly faded
Not a garment

[figheadair]

This appears to be the 'right' side of the cloth, but has been made into the inside by turning the seem to what we would consider the 'wring' side. It may not have mattered to to the sewer at the time, but then again it may have. 'Right' and 'wrong' are from the kilt making perspective, but if this was an arisaid, turned 90º then this would be appropriate and turn the twill "per fess", thus 'appearing 'right'. The 'lower' sample seems to have a stain or discolouration running vertically beside the Black stripe.

The fourth picture shows the 'wrong' side of the cloth and the inside of the join?

Perhaps I am confused on some points.

Let me just deal with this right side/wrong side issue. Historically there was no such idea of a right side of a piece of cloth. The concept is modern and the result of two things:

Firstly, the fact that as most people are right handed means that a loom will be set up in a particular threading arrangement and so most resulting cloth will be/look the same. I'm left handed and thread my loom the opposite way around and so the twill runs in the other direction when viewed on the loom.

However, and this is important, as soon as any cloth is off the loom and if turned over, then the twill runs the other way. To see this, lay you kilt on the floor, see which way the twill runs on the apron, now open it and look at the inside of the apron - it runs the other way.

Secondly, commercial cloth is now finished which means that it's washed, shaved and rolled and that gives a finished or good side (face). Actually the difference is minor as anyone that wears a belted plaid made from commercial cloth will realised – worn once or twice and it's difficult to tell which is the good face.

[Morris at Heathfield]

It looks like a tablecloth, curtain, or something like that to me. The asymmetrical stripes near the selvage are not unusual for the time period. At first glance I thought it was the Christina Young tartan, but it looks quite different from the images of the Christina Young tartan on the STA and SRT websites.

EDIT: Not asymmetrical. I mean that the warp doesn't match the weft near the selvage, I think.

[MacBean]

I know almost nothing about tartan, but what immediately strikes me (in the recently added bottom figure), is that the stripes aren't the same horizontally and vertically, and that the fabric looks too thin to be kilt related.

The red is quite pale, and I'd suspect madder as the dye, while the yellows could be any number of possibilities, including onion; not chemical dye for sure.

I'd use it on a bed or a table or as a picnic cloth!

[figheadair]

The red is quite pale, and I'd suspect madder as the dye, while the yellows could be any number of possibilities, including onion; not chemical dye for sure.

The red is almost certainly cochineal rather than madder. The yellows are in fact dark brown (near black) and a tan/yuk green. Don't think that this has ever seen an onion.

[Chas]

Is it by any chance an early C18th barred blanket?

Regards

Chas

[figheadair]

Is it by any chance an early C18th barred blanket?

Regards

Chas

Every chance - top marks Chas. Here's the detail - http://www.scottishtartans.co.uk/An_...air_Castle.pdf

[Chas]

Every chance - top marks Chas. Here's the detail - http://www.scottishtartans.co.uk/An_...air_Castle.pdf

I cannot claim any genius or insightful knowledge. But I do try and read the papers you post here. I thought that you were either giving us all a clue or a test.

So I won't say that I was cheating, just that you helped me along the way.

Regards

Chas