Is CMT a standard option?

[CDNSushi]

In the rabble's experience and research, is CMT (cut make trim) a standard option when shopping for a kiltmaker? I've noticed that some sites explicitly point it out, but others don't at all... Meaning that I would have to either call or send an e-mail to find out... (Which, of course I can easily do...)

But the question simply just occurred to me, and remains the point of my query: IS it actually a common service to offer, or do kiltmakers tend to prefer to take care of everything from A to Z -- that is to say, source the raw fabric themselves? Or is it simply just an "I don't care -- whatever the customer prefers" type of scenario?

[MacMillans son]

My experience here in the States is that CMT is a normal part of the kilt making business. The practice may or may not save you any money, but will put the purchasing time line more in your control. It has allowed me to take advantage of good tartan sales, or group purchases of custom run tartans, at one point in time, and have the kilt made later as the budget allows for it.

Other's experience may be different, however.

And, best wishes for your country's rapid recovery.

Brooke

[Paul Henry]

CMT isn't really a very common expression for a kiltmaker to use, it is more usual for large commercial concerns to use it.

I would tend to use "customer supplied fabric" as it is much easier for the customer to understand.

I normally prefer to source the fabric myself, as I know what I am looking for, not every client understands the difficulties that a maker might encounter with an unknown fabric, which might not even be suitable.I've been making clothes for clients for nearly 30 years, some private and some for theatre, I've encountered all types of cloth, and often wished I'd said no to some of the more unusual ones!
With the current thread about the cloth from Dalgliesh that Artificer is sourcing I don't have any problems with that, as that weavers fabric is probably my favourite, but if any client is keen to have me use their own fabric I will say yes, but reserve judgement until I actually see it!

[M. A. C. Newsome]

I don't know, Paul, most all kiltmakers I know are familiar with the term CMT.

I'd say that if you are dealing with an individual kiltmaker, or even with a larger kiltmaking firm, they are generally happy to do CMT. Third-party retailers are less likely to do it, because they don't do their kiltmaking in house. They would have to ship it out, which would add to the cost. But still, some do it.

Some kiltmakers are selective about the cloth they use, myself included, but that does not necessarily mean they do not accept CMT work. I, for one, am happy to do CMT, but I reserve the right to reject the cloth if it's not to standard.

[RockyR]

We've had different 'issues' with doing kilts CMT in the past from cloth being poor quality to not getting cloth in specified timeframes, to some pretty questionable practices about how cloth was obtained (I won't elaborate on that).

As a blanket statement, USA Kilts does not do kilts CMT. We do make kilts in house, but CMT work opens up certain cans of worms that we like to leave closed, so we just won't do it. Do we lose business to other kiltmakers from that decision? Yes. However, it saves many headaches too.

I'm always happy to point people to other reputable kiltmakers who DO make kilts CMT (like Matt or Barb for instance).

[Paul Henry]

I don't know, Paul, most all kiltmakers I know are familiar with the term CMT....snip....

Perhaps it's more commonly used in the States. I'm familar with it, but normally I'd associate it only with commercial size companies, rather than tailors!

[RockyR]

I hadn't heard the term until I got into the kilt making trade and mostly hear it from our UK collegues.

[CDNSushi]

Well, I certainly thank some of the resident kiltmakers from checking in here...

The reason why I ask is, (actually, funny enough, as paulhenry pointed out) when Artificer gets our Cthulhu tartan deal worked out with Dalgliesh, I'm trying to assemble a short-list of kiltmakers whom I could contact about getting one made from the fabric.

If possible, and since Dalgliesh will be offering individualized shipping service, I would prefer having the tartan shipped to the kiltmaker of my choice directly rather than going through the rigamarole of getting it shipped to Japan, then re-shipped elsewhere, and finally to have the final product sent back here. The Japanese word for this is mendokusai -- which is the perfect word to describe this, but for which there is no exact, direct English translation. But it roughly translates as: bothersome, tiresome, or just generally disharmonious or disagreeable all rolled up into a single ball of annoyance.

[Whidbey78]

The Japanese word for this is mendokusai -- which is the perfect word to describe this, but for which there is no exact, direct English translation. But it roughly translates as: bothersome, tiresome, or just generally disharmonious or disagreeable all rolled up into a single ball of annoyance.

I will remember that word! And I can guarantee it will get use.

In my regular work (custom woodwork and metal fabrication) I follow the same basic "rule" Rocky mentioned, and for very similar reasons. The biggest reason I do it is because when a customer supplies unsuitable materials, regardless what I do with it, it will still result in a sub-par product that I do not want my name on. Sadly, when this used to happen it was always "all my fault" that it didn't work out. Lesson learned. Customers who supplied materials almost invariably brought me junk that they got a good deal on, already had, etc. Usually it just wasn't good for whatever the project was. More than once I was sure it was stolen, and one guy actually tried to get me to build him a smoker from materials he stole from behind MY shop!

Keep in mind, I know that many of us know what a good kilting fabric looks and feels like, what a kilting selvedge is, etc, etc, but there will be a lot who simply don't know. A lot of them will believe that any tartan-like material, regardless of composition or weight, will do. It's unfair for a maker to expect the customer to be an expert, but it's more unfair for the customer to expect miracles. I don't blame any kiltmaker for not using customer-supplied fabric, and have nothing but respect for those who are willing to do it, and willing to take on the headaches that might result. Granted, most will send the material back before making a kilt from bad materials, but that's a pain too.

Unless I got a screaming deal on the materials, I wouldn't even buy it myself. I'd much rather order the kilt and have it show up at my house later. It seems much less a bother.

Just my $.02USD, coming from a different angle.

[ForresterModern]

I have used the CMT concept with 2 different kiltmakers and 5 different kilts, including one for my 3 year old son. As MacMillan's Son above it is easier to source certain specific tartans or by them inexpensively on sale when available, then send it to my kiltmaker at my leisure when I am ready to. The work has thus far been impeccable. I did have to deal with some defective tartan, in the one instance where I did not personally have the tartan in my own hands before sending it to the kiltmaker, as there turned out to be a horrible skew in the tartan that affected the ultimate build, kiltmaker and myself with significant distress and extraordinary effort in trying to get things "straightened" out, no pun intended. Neither kiltmaker had any concerns about quoting me CMT labor and expenses pricing. So IMHO I think it may at times be worth the effort in order to get a good handsewn in a tartan you particularly desire.