To briefly get back on topic, I found and bid on a very similar doublet on eBay this morning but didn't win.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....vip=true&rt=nc

At £10.49 it was quite a bargain, and it appears to differ from CMcG's doublet in the lapels. Sadly, I may not have the need for another doublet at this time.

Quote Originally Posted by Cygnus View Post
I was under the impression that prior to WWII, today's "black tie" was informal while today's "white tie" was formal. I wouldn't be surprised if sometime in the past 60 years "semiformal" came to be a term used for black tie, though I haven't seen it used as such. The steady degradation of dress codes has really led to a great deal of confusion, particularly since they degrade at different rates in different places.
In this century it would seem that "formal", in the United States, can be interpreted as "no sandals allowed"...
You're right. According to the Black Tie Guide, The terms "informal" and "formal" to refer to 'black tie' and 'white tie' respectively had 'downgraded' throughout the ages such thus black tie had begun to be designated as gradually "semi-formal", and presumably by today, "formal". Personally, I'd prefer to revert to a nomenclature where "semi-formal" refers to "black-tie" and "formal", to "white-tie" but we knwo that's not going to happen.
Quote Originally Posted by Jock Scot View Post
In UK terms, "dress" means formal in the terms we are talking about above.
As I understand it, in the USA and Canada it appears that "dress" means something rather less formal. For example, a smart shirt used for a funeral or business wear with a suit is often described here by you chaps as a "dress" shirt.
For us over here in the UK, a "dress" shirt is a formal shirt to be worn with formal attire.
Here in Australia, we tend to follow the UK in terms of satorial definitions. Hence a "dress shirt" is (properly) taken to mean one that's worn with formal wear. At least, that is what you'll be offered if you were to ask for one at any tailor or decent menswear outlet.



Quote Originally Posted by CMcG View Post
You are quite right that semi-formal is misleading. I continue to find dress codes confusing because people use such different terminology, without even counting people using one term but meaning something else! Perhaps referring to black tie as semi-formal is archaic because of today's more relaxed social standards of formality

I have read that black tie can be referred to as formal or semi-formal, as well as just evening dress, depending on who you are talking to. White tie can apparently be called formal, full formal, or full dress... there are probably other names too This is further complicated by the fact that black bow ties seem to be considered acceptable for white tie Highland attire! I prefer formal for black tie and full(est) formal for white tie :
Like those who have posted above, I too found semi-formal to be unfortunately one of the most confusingly abused terms in today's society. In Australia, dress tends to err on the side of casual and I've heard/read more than once that "formal" is simply a way of saying "turn up in something dressier than jeans"! I've been to "semi-formal" gatherings where outfits have been a mélange of jeans and shirts to suits to black tie.

I've found that those events that manage to have people best adhere to the dress code are ones that specifically state, say, "black tie" or "lounge suits".

At the end of the day, what matters is context. And if still in doubt, clarify with the host/hostess and suit on -- or kilt on -- as appropriate.


Quote Originally Posted by CMcG View Post
Truthfully, I don't really need white tie attire at this point in my life, but depending on which university I end up at once I get my PhD, I hear that it might become more necessary for some official functions and ceremonies. It doesn't hurt to be prepared and at least I know I can also wear my new doublet for black tie too. Besides, it leads to interesting discussions on Xmarks
CMcG, are there actually many universities in North America where white tie is called for at functions? At Oxbridge, TCD and the other older British universities, that is the case, and elsewhere in Europe -- especially Scandinavia.

I shouldn't think that this particular doublet would look too dressy at a black tie function. Particularly if the majority -- if kilted -- may invariably be dressed in PCs and Argylls and may not know better.