School me on industrial thread for kilts

[ratspike]

Steve, Rocky, Robert, and anyone else sewing on industrial machines, this question is for you.

I'm still working with domestic machines, a Singer 401A with a Kenmore 158 series on the way, but I finally got wise and ordered two 2oz spools of industrial thread to try out. Thing is, my google-fu is weak, and I haven't found anything definitive on what size thread is commonly used for apparel. Yeah, I know, that's a really open ended question. Most apparel sewing stuff I've found relates to fashion and making kids clothes, and then tactical gear and bag making at the other extreme.

I have a spool of T45, which I assumed would be a little burlier than the Coats and Guttermann thread I've been getting at Joann. It's definitely heavier and stitches are a little more obvious. Considering the style of kilts I make I don't find this to be a problem aesthetically. Did I make the right choice, or would T30 be better?

I also ordered a spool of T70 for making bags, which is the heaviest stuff I'd try and run in my machines. The stitches are really big and thick compared to what I'm used to, and I think might look good on the right kilt. Would thread this heavy be too much for apparel fabrics?

Fabric-wise, it's the usual suspects. Poly/cotton twill, canvas duck, and nyco ripstop. Thoughts and suggestions are appreciated.