The end of traditional tartan - a personal view

[figheadair]

Bit of a provocative heading I know but I was struck by a discussion I had yesterday with a couple of our biggest (Scottish owned) weavers about the commercial pressures on the industry. This is not a new phenomenon and is a result of the commercial need to improve production at the same time when the older looms are reaching the end of their practical life and are increasingly being replaced by modern power looms.

The main difference in the cloth that these modern looms produce is the ‘so-called’ tuck selvedge which is in fact a misnomer and this type of finish is actually a glued hem. For many people they won’t notice the difference and indeed it will become increasingly difficult for them to do so because I believe that Scottish cloth with a true selvedge (self-edge) is likely to disappear in the next 20 years or so. So what some may ask. Well this means that the ability to recreate old techniques such as herringbone selvedges along with selvedge marks and patterns – see here for an explanation of the differences, will disappear. And that should worry everyone with an interest in the history of tartan. In an age where, conversely, re-enactors and historians are interested in more faithful reproductions of older techniques the commercial pressures mean that these will become harder and harder to find.

All is not lost of course. There will be older looms in the likes India and China or even in England (there's said to more tartan woven in Yorkshire than the whole of Scotland) that will still be around for years and so you will still be able to get traditional Scottish tartan there.

Now here’s a thought. Are we partially responsible for this situation by our tendency to want more than one or two kilts? The Nissan verses the Rolls Royce is not a completely accurate comparison but nicely illustrates the differences between mass production and bespoke. So next time you’re thinking about a kilt just give a thought to preserving the past and at least consider asking for cloth with a real selvedge. Even better, support a hand weaver (if you can find one).

Cuimhnichibh air na daoine o'n d' thainig sibh.