I just spent time in New York City with kiltmakers from Scotland. It was a seminar on methods, materials, and shared "secrets". I learned a few things that would AMAZE you! Their innovation and quietly-held methods are astounding. THAT'S how they get these things so daggum straight!

The highlight for me was the discussion and display on an "after-market selvedge". This applies ONLY to wool kilts.

When the wool is weaved at the mills, there's a certain "stitch" that is incorporated that makes it so that the wool will not fray. It is an old method that hides the weave, and maintains the pattern of the tartan.

What do a LOAD of the kiltmakers do when the altering requires that the length be shortened more than 1.5"? The majority CUT the wool, and produce a new selvedge with... get this... paraffin. This is not the normal candle paraffin wax, but a paraffin that's of a much higher quality. It does not turn white, does not dry stiff, and does not show in the wool.

It's heated to a liquid point, applied with a stiff brush (which allows it to be pushed into the fabric on the UNDERSIDE), and then dried. Once dried, it is ironed into the fabric on a light setting (on the FRONT SIDE). Any excess can easily be brushed away with a horse hair paintbrush... and the patience of an archaeologist.

Washing the kilt will not affect the paraffin. It's a natural deterrant to water. I was AMAZED at the look after it was done. I was even given a wool sample, some paraffin and shown how to do it. It was so easy that even I got it right!

You really never know what's out there until you seek the experienced ones! Those people have hundreds of years of methods that we just can't appreciate until times like this! Their hip pleating methods are incredible... and it GREATLY affects the hang and alignment of the pleats. That's why theirs don't "wander"!!!