I have just started to learn how to make kilts and I am about to start my third kilt.

I was thinking about making this kilt with a straight apron, instead of the tapered apron on tradition mens kilts.

I have two questions i am hoping to get help with.

1. Is there an advantage with a tapered apron vs a straight apron found on kilted skirts? Does it move better etc.

2. How many cm/inch should the bottom of the apron be more than the top on a tradition kilt?