let's look at vintage check tweed

[figheadair]

Here is a painting by James Hardy made in 1871. The boy appears to be wearing a kilt in the same tweed as your photo.


From: fineartamerica.com

Both made from a length of Shepheard Check cloth, probably navy blue and ecru, with a selvedge mark. I have a rather 'distressed' 19th century plaid in this pattern.