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hmonroe Pleating options and... 15th December 19, 11:58 AM
Pleater I was about to warn you that... 15th December 19, 04:01 PM
hmonroe Thank you for your advice!I... 15th December 19, 05:34 PM
Barb T Just a thought - this is the... 15th December 19, 07:09 PM
hmonroe Although this will be my... 15th December 19, 08:06 PM
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    15th December 19
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    Pleating options and double-checking calculations for kilt-like kilted skirt

    This is all very new to me, so I apologize if I use the wrong terminology! I am a semi-experienced seamstress and am interested in applying many of the traditional kilt-making techniques into a longer skirt (and am awaiting the arrival of The Art of Kiltmaking to help!). In the meantime, I have been playing around with pleating options in Paintbrush. Although I love Barb's Kingussie kilt in Hudson Bay tartan, I am still not sure if I want a kingussie or knife-pleated kilt. I do know that I don't want box pleats.

    I plan to use the House of Edgar Muted Munro, as my middle name is Monroe from my maternal lineage. The sett repeat is 21cm/8.25", so I was thinking of pleating to two stripes per sett so I can buy less fabric. I'm hoping someone can check my math and give advice on if they like any of my pleating arrangements enough for me to commit to the less-fabric plan. I will of course check pleating options in person with the real fabric when it arrives.

    26" waist, 39" hip -> 16" of pleating at waist, 24" of pleating at hip to get ~60% pleats (more feminine, will allow for future weight gain). So if I want 1" wide pleats at the hip, I need 24 pleats with 2 pleats per 8.25" = 24*(8.25"/2) = 99" for the pleating and (40"-24")*2 = 32" for the two aprons -> 3.7 yards/3.4 meters for both. I was thinking about getting 4 meters (4.4 yards) which would give me an extra 26.5" for apron pleats, fringe, centering front apron, etc. Do you think that's enough?

    Here is the tartan in the muted colorway:
    MunroMutedTartan.jpg

    And here are 3 pleating options I came up with (1 kingussie, 2 knife). I am of course very open to suggestion!

    Kingussie pleated to alternating blue/green stripe:
    KingussiePleatedtoAlternatingBlueGreen2.png

    Knife-pleated to alternating blue/green stripe:
    KnifePleatedtoAlternatingBlueGreen.png

    Knife-pleated to every blue stripe:
    KnifePleatedToBlueStripe.png

    Thank you for any help!

    edit:

    after doing more math, I realized that that pleat depth would be awfully small if I get two per sett - like 1.5" per pleat. I get closer to 3" depth per pleat if I alternate a blue stripe with the triple stripe, which will have a distance of around 6.5" between them and a pleat width of 1.4". That would require 4 yards/3.7 meters of fabric (would need to add more for apron pleats, fringe, etc.) and looks like this. But perhaps that's too busy? Who knew one could think about this so much!

    KingussiePleatedtoAlternatingBlueTriple.png
    Last edited by hmonroe; 15th December 19 at 02:56 PM. Reason: added pleating option

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