My USA Kilts semi-trads have been my most-worn kilts. I have a 5 yard wool on my wish list, but have not seen one up close. The top stitching on the semitrad is not too obtrusive. I expect that my friends who sew would notice it, and most others would not.
USAKwall1.jpg
I just lucked into a Scotweb casual on clearance: very nice kilt, in 16-oz Isle of Skye. I could not say whether it's hand-sewn or machine-sewn from the bottom.
Scotweb-Casual1.jpg
These are all similar in construction. The pleats have not been cut out as they would in an 8 yard, so there is less need for structural reinforcement. There's no stabilizer or hair canvas.
If I were building one, I might add the stabilizer: that's a piece of broadcloth that structurally links the waist buckles to keep stress off the pleat seams. Here, less weight of fabric means there's less need for that reinforcement. My USAK semi-trads have been going strong for 13+ years without it.
Ken Sallenger - apprentice kiltmaker, journeyman curmudgeon,
gainfully unemployed systems programmer
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