Trip to Scotland 1983: Four and half months in the Highlands and Islands

[DCampbell16B]

Cleared up this morning. Slept badly last night. Also midges. Schiehallion easy to see, no clouds. Also mountains at end of Loch Rannoch. Have snow in the corries. Very beautiful. Washed face, neck, arms in Loch this morning. Temp of water must have been at least 2-3 degrees above freezing. Bus to Rannoch Station [post bus. First time I used it]. [The post bus carried mail, ans could carry a few passengers, delivered milk, sometimes even animals. Filled a need to the remote villages.] Packed and got to town 45min. Easier with fly.
Killichonan the first Highland town. Houses strewn over the hillside, not on road. Driver says lots of people here still speak "Perthshire" gaelic. Water brown, just like the pictures. Sky clear, a little hazy. Can see Scheihallion from the forestry road.

[The road dead ends at Rannoch Station. You can look north or south along the rail line. Or back behind you, but the bus is gone. Or head to the moor.]

Map of Rannoch Moor from the Ordnance Survey Map for Pitlochry and the Trossachs

Rannoch Moor crossing, Loch Laidon. Foreground Leathad Mor, in rear Beinn a' Cheachain, to right Beinn Achaladair.

Loch Laidon and Ben Achalader

Drank the brown water and gratefully. [I wouldn't do that now. Who knows what sheep lurk above?] What a gorgeous day. Breeze to keep the midges off. Sun sparkles on Loch Laidon.

Back toward Loch Rannoch. I tried to shade the lens from the sun. [click for larger view]


Wet feet, peaty soil, some slips (3). Bad falls. [The trail was pretty dry, but when I stepped even 6 inches or so off the trail (when I got unbalanced by the 76 pound pack) I was immediately up to my knee in peat. Then I had to figure out how to get myself out. It usually meant dropping the pack, getting leg out, getting on the trail and hoisting the pack again.]

Rested on a rock. Can still see Rannoch Station. Going is wet and rough. Plenty of Heather. No blossoms. Almost past path by going through gate [not sure what I meant]. Tigh na Cruaiche by 11am.

Schiehallion from the west

[Looking over my shoulder I saw a dust cloud approaching me. If I had been in the States I would have called it a dust devil. It was a hiker. She was an Israeli who had finished her national service and was walking around Britain. She left me in the dust.]

RAF fighter flew by at my eye level. Was past me before I even knew he was there.

On the west side of Rannoch some Heather is starting to bloom.

Glen Etive to the left. Am Buachaille Etive Mor center, Glen Coe to the right.

4:10 between lodge and Kingshouse Hotel. Air very heavy.
5:05 Kingshouse Hotel. Must find out if you tip for a cup of tea. [I had the place to myself. Just as well as I must have been a sight after that.] Saw some of the Glen Coe Mountain Rescue team at hotel.
Fate seems to have pointed me to Glen Coe village. If I don't make it I'll camp for the night and decide which way in the morning.
Given lift to Glen Coe Hostel almost immediately (3rd car). Took me to the door. Got in. Met a couple of English chaps who had been over Aonach Eagach and were pleased they made it and horrified they went. Went to pub, drank Pepsi. Met the English chaps and the Israeli girl. Discussed cultural differences. Had shower.