So if the pattern repeats every four inches, how does this work:

fold 2" under and then a 3" piece before folding 2" under again...this gives a "reveal" of 1" and the pattern repeats on what I assume is the 5th pleat.

This is not fabric (it is wool) of the heaviest weight (I may end up hemming it to get more weight though the selvedge is really good) and basically I'm aiming for a casual kilt...I bought six yards of the stuff and have to get around a 40" butt. I'm kind of basing my math on some of the websites on kiltmaking but I just want to doublecheck it with some of the folks who have some experience.

best

AA