I talked to a woman in class and she will swe a fell in my stillwater standard (for a fee). What all do I need to tell her?

How long should the fell be, is it sewn right at the bottom side of the edge of the pleat, will a machine work or hand stitch only for this, and should there be any taper in the fell or is it a straight up and down thing?

I have a art of kiltmaking book but I simply can't find it. I'm sure most of these are answered in there though.