Greetings all,

I am embarking on making my first traditional styled kilt as opposed to the casual Utilikilt styled ones that I have gotten pretty good at. I will be ordering Barb’s book shortly for more clear instruction (damned holiday bills are arriving earlier & earlier these days). I have done a fair bit of reading on here about the proper construction on them but have a couple of minor questions:

1: I will be doing knife pleats in the counter clockwise direction – each pleat will be 1” on the face with 4” of fabric behind so should be a fairly decent amount of swing when completed. When it comes to the apron that goes from right to left, (the one that falls UNDERNEATH) I should put a double depth BOX pleat – correct?
2: I am machine stitching the whole thing (yes, blasphemy to the purists, but patience & hand stitching are not my strong suits). Should the pleats be top stitched their full length making them stay very sharp?
3: follow up on the top stitching question, would it be a crime to stitch down the pleats from the waistband to the fall (where they start to hang free in the back)? Should this be done on the outside of the garment as topstitching or the inside?
4: the fabric I have chosen is a very small check – tan, medium brown, black & navy – so no pattern to match up (what the hell is the ‘sette’ anyway – is their a glossary of kilting/fabric terms for the tartan newbies on here) It does have a very dark selvedge so I will have to put a small hem in – no biggie – I will be doing it with dark thread so it wont be noticeable – I would do a blind stitch on it with about 1” of fabric flipped up – any thoughts?
5: where can I get the proper leather buckles for the hip closure? In the casual kilts I have been using heavy-duty black snaps but in this instance I want it to be a bit dressier… I know of a couple of places in the garment district here in the Manhattan that I will head to in this instance but for future endeavors I would rather go a less expensive route.
6: And on the subject of buckles – is it customary to put one on the INSIDE of where the leading edge of the under apron ends? I noticed that in one of the threads I read but that doesn’t sound to comfortable to me…
7: Should I put a buckle on the LEFT hip as well as buckles on the right – the ones on the right hip will be the closures – the one of the left would be purely decorative (I am 98% decided NOT to put one there but would like input from others as well).
8: FRINGE??? Where & why??? Both edges of the upper apron?? Just the leading edge?? Not a big fan of it but am interested in hearing opinions.
9; I am going to put a slash pocket in the back like in mens trousers (again blasphemy - not a fan of sporrans here) and am debating doing an inner pocket in the waist band for my wallet - just to give me a bit more security when stashing cash. In the casual kilts i used to put a pocket on th einside of the outer apron at the bottoms for my wallet but the funny looks i would get when reaching for stuff has dissuaded me from doing so anymore. the added weight was great for modesty but....

Okay so that was more than just a couple of questions – its Friday – I am at work & bored & I am becoming kilt obsessed - I NEED HELP!!

All assistance/input/suggestions given is greatly appreciated!!!

Colin

also if anybody can tell me how to insert an image in these damned things i would show you guys the fabric, but i cant figure it out!!!