I often seem to be the odd man out when it comes to such things as to whom can wear this or that tartan, and without doubt my approach contradicts some of the experts, and will annoy those who look to the right to wear what they like. So I have decided to offer a fuller explanation of the reasoning behind my thinking.

Firstly as many have pointed out, there are in the main with a few exceptions no actual rules as to who can wear which tartan, so a one level the pundits are right. However at another level they are so very wrong, for the lack of rules was occasioned by a mixture of common sense, convention and good manners: so there was no need for rules, as kilt wearers knew or could if in doubt seek advice from their peers.

Now to another point, why do so many newcomers to wearing the male skirt, look to the kilt: rather than say the sarong, fustanella, maybe the lava-lava: after all would the Utilikilt be any less a male garment if it was called The Utilisarong?

My opinion is that they are justifying their choice of nether garment, by reference to the well established tradition of highland kilt wearing by both the military and civilians alike. So they are seeking credence for their choice by association with a well known masculine image: that of the bold highland clansman/warrior.

To demonstrate my point, think about the many posts where chaps have stated that their kilt/utilikilt or whatever is being worn ‘as a true Scotsman’: a statement that has little to do with their underwear, and much about establishing their credentials for wearing such a garment.

It is at this point that things start to go wrong, for though one can argue about such things as how long the clan-tartan system has been in place, even when clan tartans were created: there is no doubt that in Scotland at least, for nigh on two hundred years the concept of identifying a clansman by his tartan has been accepted. Remove that, and what are we left with: very little, for certainly the link to the clansman has been broken; and this in turn destroys the link to the highlands, and of course Scotland.

So what are we left with: not a lot, for with that link broken, it is really a case of wearing a pretty tartan coloured nether garment; and the exemplar for that choice could as well be one of the many girl’ schools where wearing a similar garment is a part of the uniform.

Having written that, I do think the increase in kilt wearing is a good thing for many reasons, and certainly I support newcomers to what some see as a movement.

I also support the development of new tartans, be they district, American State, or whatever. However this leads to a question: what is the point of developing say a State Tartan, if it can be worn by anyone, for that at once removes the whole point of having distinct and meaningful tartans.

So I would suggest that all kilt wearers should ignore the ‘anything goes’ idea, and wear a tartan with which they have a genuine connection: be that of family, State, district, arm of service/regiment or whatever. This way we would all be preserving our heritage, and oddly enough make the wearing of the tartan more interesting, for there would be a reason for our wearing this or that tartan: not just a case of liking the pretty colours.

Having said that, do not imagine I’m suggesting the creation of a so called Tartan Police: for I well appreciate that there are reasons ranging from money, through availability to whatever; which will on occasion come between a chap and his being able to sport his own tartan. So please accept that I’m suggesting reasonable common sense, rather than absolute rules.

However I do think that the principle should be then ordering a kilt, to look for one with which there is a genuine link, be it of clan or whatever. Failing that there is a long tradition of plain kilts, an entirely honourable option. However wherever possible the idea that anyone can wear any tartan should be rejected for the reasons mentioned above.

Well why not, or are you looking to destroy the very heritage you are seeking to claim?

I’m well aware that the above cuts across what people like Matt and Hamish would say, and without doubt they know much more than me on the academic side of tartans and the like. However the above has nothing at all to do with academics, rules and the like: it is to do with the heart and the blood, it is about one’s own folk, it is about those who would stand by you and who trust your word, and whose word you trust. That is the meaning which will never be found in books, or by membership of some self appointed authority. In fact it is something which will probably not be understood by anyone who has not had the real experience of such things as a clan and or regiment.

I regret that the above will appear harsh and unfeeling, possibly offensive to some, but on occasion it is necessary to take a possibly unpalatable line in the interest of the greater good.

So wear your kilt with pride, for it is not only displaying your manhood, it is also showing your genuine affiliation.

James





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