Wow!!

Silk with a dragon - well I have been piecing kilts to make do with cheaper materials.

I bought a whole bolt of tartanish material and when it arrived I realised that the outer face was brushed, and to get the twill running in the right direction I would have to use the inside, turned around to run selvage to selvage. That has meant - with it being a 60 inch width, that I have even more cloth to make into kilts. I have done the same thing with a DPM (camoflage) material where the pattern looked wrong running sideways.

I make the joins to be the inside fold of a pleat and make the suppression to the waist by leaving the top of the join unsewn. If you are going to cut out the fell it is not important. If you are not going to cut just sew the two layers together, allowing the edges to lie as they need to in order to be flat. You do need to think about the order in which you sew things so you can get to the seams if you are going to use a sewing machine. Do use silk thread and the finest possible needles for the sewing. I'm not sure how familiar you are with using silk, but I am going on the advice of a master tailor/dressmaker.

You might - depending on the weight of the silk consider making a hem with some depth, or even sewing in a ribbon to add extra weight at the hem, or sewing in a 'modesty' cord, tape or even elastic strip in order to restrain the pleats.

You should have a long length of material with cutting it into panels - though there might be some wastage if you wish to match the pattern - you might be able to make a Military box pleated kilt - there has been a thread about that in the DIY section - there was a photo of the modesty elastic strip used in one of them. It was thought to help keep the pleats in order - having tacked together a kilt of this type I would say it needs controlling because it flies!! It also moves beautifully. It's like a line of hula dancers.