I prefer pleated to Sett. One reason for this is that the kilt I was raised with is pleated to Sett. Macneil of Barra Ancient, being the tartan. Newer kilts are Black Watch, Irish National, with American Heritage on the way. Pleated to Sett presents a very even look to the kilt when standing. When in motion the pleats can provide many interestingly shifting patterns. I am NOT a piper, If I were I would want a heavyweight pleated to stripe just to make it have grander presence. Just MHO.