Quote Originally Posted by Jake_S View Post
The under apron pleat is shown in appendix 1, but it is not mentioned in the manual, so I do not know what to do with it. Do I handle it like a normal pleat, and fold it under the over apron, or ....... ?
Jake, this may be a question of terminology. What's labelled "under apron pleat" is the pleat on the left-hand side of the outer/top apron. On a traditional knife-pleated kilt, this would be an extra large knife pleat.

IN the section Tack down the top of the outer apron around page 25, we read "Move ‘round to the front of the kilt and lay out the left hand edge of the over apron next to the forward-facing edge of pleat #1." We've lined up and sewed the left edge of the apron already; now bring it to touch the first pleat. IN the process, that fabric allowance between them is folded under the apron to make a pleat.


Also, tapering of the pleats. Am I just reducing the width of the exposed pleat (3" part), or do I need to something with the under pleats?
You're going to reduce the top, exposed part of the pleat; and somehow fold under the excess. Think of "rolling" the extra bit of fabric underneath each side of the pleat, into the concealed parts of the pleats, then pinning it down to top-stitch it.

If your pleats stared out like Alan's, then you have a half inch gap underneath. Where you're tapering more than 1/2 inch, either let the back of adjacent pleats overlap or make an extra fold near the waist. I chose to overlap them. I don't have a useful picture handy... Hope this helps.