Jacket 3.0 Open Source Design

[kevinkinney]

Hello All,

I'd like to open this thread with an introduction- My new best friends:

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The red one is my new Ardis Tailoring Form. ($150- get one now!), and the black one is an Ebay mannequin that will double as me for a contest. The red container in the background is my rolling garment rack- the one that keeps our fine clothing safe from Beeswax (a.k.a. Thorfinn #96), our house cat. Today's Ebay fishing netted me a school of vintage patterns in most jacket sizes.

Here's what arrived in my shop today

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Left is Matt Newsome's Harris Tweed for his new jacket.

The middle is a stout woolen slated for Operation Kilts-vs-Quilts: 2009 (2008? ) MN State Fair Craft Competition.

The right one is a lovely worsted suiting wool that drew a passionate "Pencil skirt! Pencil skirt! Pencil skirt...with a jacket..." pleading from the resident female.

I've been greatly encouraged by the feedback from the jackets I posted. Thank you all. I pursued them because that's how my brain is wired. I like the idea of a classy look. I love to work with wool. And my tail really wags furiously when I'm doing something new and weird. I'm planning to make an updated coat for myself, then one for Matt. Should the process go smoothly, I' may offer them as bespoke garments through the Scottish Tartans Museum.

I'm looking at a few weeks of solid ECW production work before I can put pencil to tag board, so I'd like to get some feedback in the interim. What would appeal to you in a jacket? Where would you wear one? What would you be doing in it, and how should I be building it to accommodate you?

First, some Kevin sporting jacket design philosophy:

1. I dislike washing garments, only slightly less than I loathe dry cleaning. That's why I love wool. I've worn some of our ECW insulation layers for years without any real care, and they still look and smell fresh. But most fine woolen suits, blazers, and vests are lined with synthetics. It's not the shell of your business suit that starts to smell from the pressure of you job, it's the lining. I'd like to avoid using synthetics, and line jackets with a sheer woolen suiting material, something that moves, acts, and breathes like the rest of the garment.

2. Good looking stuff is nice, but a good range of motion is more critical to me. I've spent plenty of time in street garments and uniforms. My business is about playing outside. I'd like to forsake the pinched fit and feel of the gentleman's tweed, and strive for utility. You may have figured this out already without my mentioning it.



This was a good start, but I'd like to add adjustable closures on the cuffs to accept gloves, allow you to ventilate. If this jacket would fit over an Aran knit, it would be killer. The Bi-Swing back stays. It's just too practical.

I like the look and durability of the leather, but I'd probably get more day to day use without the shooting pad on the shoulder. I've sketched a removable one that anchors at the shoulder seam, at the armpit, and under the collar. I like epaulets. Not the frilly kind, but stout and functional ones with snaps. I wear a shoulder bag daily when I'm out, and lashing it in place while casting, shooting pictures, and hiking has some appeal.

3. Real tailoring is a art. I'm not an artist. I'm a technician, designer, and manufacturer. Altering Tuxedos and other coats is pretty easy. Most of the hard work was done by the patient hands that built the canvas of the chest and grafted it to the shell fabric. They shaped the roll of the collar, and stuffed the cap of the sleeves while stitching multiple layers of lining and shell together in a manner that I just can't seem to simplify. Tailoring cost good money for a reason. Those guys are nuts.

Given my druthers, I'd work without adding structure to the fabric. That means minimal chest canvas, top stitched seams, and as little lining as possible. I'm in love with the wool, and willing to let it work as the sheep intended. Granted, soft shoulder construction would stink on your doublet, but a slight reinforcement of extra shell fabric would still breathe well, and keep you looking smart on the field. Only the guys are looking at your jacket anyway, and what do they know...

So, I'll yield the thread, don some bifurcated flannel, and go curl up with Thorfinn #96 and read a book while waiting for the redhead to return from work.

Cheers,

Kevin.