I'm a member of a committee that has designed a couple of new tartans for our running club, the Hash House Harriers. Registration is behind us and we are at the point of getting samples woven so that we can send them off to a mass producer of kilts and be less surprised by what comes back.

Part of this step is deciding how big our sett size should be. I would love your opinions. Here are the factors:
• We want box pleats but don't want to be locked into always doing box pleats.
• The tartans are based on that of the 93rd regiment. That sett is quite large, 14 1/2". It would be nice to stay true to that, but not necessary. Stripes on that tartan are 2 1/4"
• Our whole thread count is 388 and can be factored to 97, 194, or 291. It could similarly be multiplied in smaller increments than whole numbers and remain proportional.

I know that for box pleats you want a 6-9" sett size, but does the fact that our sett is so complex play a factor, namely in trying to pleat to the stripe? With a sett size of 9" our stripes would be about 1 1/3"

Both tartans have the same thread count with different colors:



Thanks!