Found this nice mid-weight, 60" camo in what seems to be poly/cotton blend for $3/yard at a local fabric store. It was in pre-cut lengths of mostly 1-2 yards but hunting through the stacks unearthed a 3+ yard length. I've hand-sewn a kilt from double-wide tartan so I figured I could join two lengths in similar fashion for the X-Kilt.

I didn't take a lot of pics of layout and construction where it conforms to X-Kilt instructions (boring, and the flash really bounces off this fabric). But here are a few detail shots of the joining, and of one point where I discovered a glitch in the X-Kilt manual. Take heed, if you haven't made one yet!

I needed 12 pleats. Laid out the chalk lines on first cut of fabric and got to the leading edge of pleat #10 (photo shows pleat #9 and "box" between 9 and 10). Backed off one inch from the leading edge of #10 and chalked a line for the seam.


Took up my second cut of fabric, chalked a line 1 inch from edge for seam allowance, one inch for the remainder of the box, then continued with pleats 10, 11 and so on.


Sewed the seam and pressed it open. This shows the right side (seam is at the chalked arrow mark).


Here's the wrong side, seam allowances pressed open and one side trimmed to about 1/4 inch in prep for a finished technique that will prevent this seam ever fraying. Here, I've trimmed the side that is next to pleat #10 but I strongly recommend trimming the other edge, the one that is AWAY from the nearest pleat (I'll explain why later).


Fold about half the untrimmed seam allowance in toward the seam and press it down.


Then fold that toward the trimmed edge, so the folded edge completely captures the trimmed edge. All your seam allowance material is now on one side of the stitched seam line -- here, the seam is on the left and the folded material is to the right.


Sew along the folded edge. This puts a line of "bobbin side" stitching on the right side of the kilt, but it will be hidden inside the fold between pleats 9 and 10.


Finished seam, from the right side of fabric. Chalk arrow shows the seam, stitched line is to the left of it. As I said, you should do the opposite -- fold the allowances AWAY from the closer pleat 10. When top-stitching the outer edge of pleat 10, the folded seam allowance was just a tad too close, and interfered with my top-stitch line (nudged the edge of the presser foot).


More to come. . .