I am working with 4 yards of 13 ounce tartan in the MacGregor modern sett and would like some advice on pleating (box pleat kilt). See the below image:


Pleating arrangement #1: I'm not sure I like this pleating arrangement but it creates box pleats of equal size on the outside and the inside of the kilt.. no overlapping of pleats inside the kilt.

Pleating arrangement #2: This arrangement looks ok but it creates larger box pleats on the inside of the kilt than those on the outside.. the inner pleats will overlap each other.

Pleating arrangement #3: This arrangement looks best in my opinion, but, again, it creates larger box pleats on the inside of the kilt than those on the outside.. the inner pleats will overlap each other.

Pleating to sett: I prefer pleating to stripe for this kilt but will pleat to sett if that's the best way to go.

Isn't a box pleat kilt supposed to be pleated so that the inner pleats don't overlap?

What's the best thing to do here?