I'm confused.... oh so confused. I'd be grateful if someone could take pity and help me out....

I've finally finished Barbs book (TAoKM) and cant procrasinate anylonger - I've set myself the target of getting the kilt done for Christmas (NO PRESSURE!). I'm hoping to make up time once I get to the stiching of the pleats - and for now just try to 1) motivate myself during the preparation and 2) not get ahead of myself and make a major mistake. (I also recon I'll mistakes anyway but would like to start out knowing I'm pointing in the right direction!)

So I need some help figuring out my splits. (Certainly not too proud not to ask for help!!!) My professionally made kilt is trying to guide me, as is the book, but I'm just not getting it.

I'm a comfortable 34" waist and 42" hips. 20" from waist to top of my knee cap.

So I've done the following splits:

Waist Split 1: Apron 17" Pleats 17"
Waist Split 2: Apron 18" Pleats 16"
Waist Split 3: Apron 19" Pleats 15"

Hips Split 1: Apron 21" Pleats 21"
Hips Split 2: Apron 20" Pleats 22"
Hips Split 3: Apron 19" Pleats 23"

So understanding that a little more apron is better at the waist and a bit more pleat is better at the hips splits 3 seem to work. (?) But then I'm thinking that the apron is 19" waist to hip - which doesnt seem right!? (no shaping?)

Should I be making sure there is a bit more "out" at the hips to provide the 'A' line shape? In which case should it be 3 and 1?

My professionally made kilts apron (and fitted to me (yes a couple of years/pounds ago)) measures 18" at the waist and 20" at the hips and 22" at the selvedge. With a 23" length (inc 2" above waist). I was thinking it would be sensible to keep close to those measurements as thats a nice fitting kilt (see avatar!)

Am I way of track or not far off just with no idea?

Thanks everyone!!! Comments gratefully recieved.