How are you trying to pleat?

You are - possibly - trying to create identical reveals - if so perhaps try an experiment with alternating reveals?

My latest kilt, (which is entitled to give reproachful looks as it has languished unfinished for some time), is pleated to a stripe, but the fabric is difficult and I have ended up with pleat reveals of the three different bands of colour, each with its own stripe centralised on the reveal. It actually looks rather good, somewhere between pleating to set and stripe.

It was not at all what I intended to do, but after some time trying out different pleatings it was the only way to make it work out. I think that sometimes the fabric determines how it can be pleated, and the only way forward is to find out what that way is.

Anne the Pleater