Thanks for the compliment!

Pressing takes more time, but the end result seems to be worthwhile and will definitely be done on my next kilt! Kilting (and any garment making really) is new to me, I've been sticking to gear making with cordura, and specifically for netbook sleeves: http://shop.psyopper.com. Working with materials that flex and move confounds me so I'm particularly surprised it came out this straight.

So what you are describing with the taper, in my own words is... From the fell to about an inch above the fell stitch in the same straight pleat | | then do the taper from there to the waist?

I almost think I like the fact that the pleats open a bit when worn at rest. It's already a non-traditional kilt and this seems to give it a more relaxed, less formal look, more rugged look. But it's good to know how to do it and be able to add that skill and knowledge to my tool box.

I actually wore it out to a bar last night and got quite a few compliments on it. The girls liked the fact that I was wearing a "dress" and one commented that "it's got a good line to it". One of the big bearded bikers simply said "You made that eh? I have a 40 inch waist..." Living in Portland, Oregon helps as everyone here has their own style and none of them are looked down upon. If it's strange the worst thing you hear is "Well, that's very Portland."

One last question. I understand a box pleat and a knife edge pleat, but can someone describe a reverse Kingusse pleat?

Quote Originally Posted by Pleater View Post
That is a rather fine looking kilt for a first one - you seem to have got everything pretty even and aligned.

I prefer to press all the outer folds on my kilts before I start to sew - I make reverse Kingussie kilts rather than box pleats, but I like to get the creases spot on when I can still isolate them from the rest of the folds and fabric and get a sharp crease.

I think the kilts I have made with pre pressed folds have resulted in neater pleats in the long run.

The problem with the taper continuing down the pleats could be because you sewed only a taper. If you had sewn maybe half an inch to an inch straight below the taper the lower part would fall straight from that.

You would need to be sure that you were sewing the straight part below your widest contour so the kilt was not pulled out of line, but it should turn the / \ of the shaping to the l l of the lower part.

When fitting your kilt you need to add enough extra circumference so that the garment skims the body shape rather than being held close to it. You can then move without the kilt being flexed and the seams put under tension with every step. The difference between the body measurement and the garment measurement is called ease, and the amount of ease required depends mostly on the thickness of the fabric and how flexible it is, and how tightly it is woven - a loose weave might require an extra half inch so there is less tension on it, as if pulled tight the fabric would quickly begin to sag out of shape and look worn.

If you are using a fabric which is fairly soft and revealing you can line the under apron to make it more rigid.

Anne the Pleater :ootd: