I stand corrected, but I think the three button tartan waistcoat shown above with the red sheriffmuir is still pretty high in its closure. That is undisputably a great looking ensemble.


A 3 button waistcoat, as usually worn with a PC or dress mess, tends to be only about 5 or 6 inches high. Without a jabot to cover the "blank space", you'd have the closure of the Sheriffmuir at the top, and then a large blank expanse of shirtfront, then the waistcoat. By leaving the doublet unfastened, you lessen that ( unpleasant ) keyhole effect. Wearing a four in hand or ruche tie does the same thing.

I go back to Charles Thompson on the jabot with an exposed white shirtfront. He says it doesn't show well that way and I agree. I think the jabot looks best contrasted against a high waistcoat or a doublet front.

All of this is only opinion, of course. While I am at it, I will say again that the much touted "forgiving waistline" of the sheriffmuir only calls attention to a bay window by framing it in contrasting color. I think the solid closed front of a Kenmore, or better the keystone arrangement of buttons on a Montrose (drawing the eye up and out towards the broad shoulders) is a better way to conceal girth at the equator.

Lucky is the man who doesn't have to consider this!