kiltwearing advice from 1936

[OC Richard]

Background: Jock Scot told me I needed to see more old Highland Dress catalogues, and I have done exactly that, becoming quite a collector of the things recently. They can be picked up inexpensively on Ebay fairly often.

Well I recently got a very nice one:

The Scottish National Dress
fifth edition
A Handbook For Everyone Interested in Highland Dress
Wm Anderson & Sons LTD
14-16 George Street Edinburgh
and at 155 Hope Street Glasgow
By Appointment to His Late Majestry King George V

which dates it to 1936.

The articles make for interesting reading, as they set the stage for the "traditional" Highland Dress which has come down to us, the dress I came to know in the 1970's, when the categories of "day" and "evening" were still rigidly maintained.

The articles, as you'll see, are chock full of "propers" and "shoulds" and "musts".

First is an article about the history of Highland Dress, followed by:

Modern Highland Dress
In the preceeding pages we have briefly described the origin and development of Highland Dress, which, as the indigenous garb of the olden Celtic Kingdom, has rightly come to be regarded as the National Dress of Scotland. The style of to-day is a development and modification of the ancient garb, which still retains all its essential features. Yet this modern style differs even from the Highland Dress of thirty years ago, just as ordinary dress has altered during a similar period, and it reflects the changing tastes and practical conditions of the twentieth century, just as occurred in each of the preceeding ages through which it has developed. Although the modern Highland Dress is essentially up to date, it still reflects the Scottish character in that it is susceptible to modification to individual tastes- and clan traditions- in a manner not found in other modern male attire. This, however, involves the necessity of expert advice, combining modern skill with knowledge of both past tradtion and present tendencies, in order to prevent the anachronisms or travesties still occasionally met with, or where outfits have been acquired from sources not in touch with the great Scottish families around which centres the Scottish clan system and its customs. Basically, the costume for civilian wear may almost be said not to have altered since the eighteenth century. Yet, in matters of detail, each generation has introduced modifications, and even modern fashions have apporpriately exerted their influences, though, curiously enough, they have in matter of Highland Dress in many ways led to rediscovery of both the practical and artistic advantages of the older Scottish styles which, during the nineteenth century, had tended to become oppressive in cut and decoration. As an example of the minor changes in taste, the sporran of long white goat hair, almost universally the fashion during the Victorian age, has to a great extent given place to a smaller sporran of sealskin or badger, often elaborately decorated with pierced and engraved silver mountings. In headgear, the Balmoral, of which there are many varieties- some specially favoured by particular clans- has largely ousted the Glengarry, which nevertheless retains its popularity amongst Macdonells, Macphersons, and the gay Gordons. In recent years the tendency has been for coats worn with the kilt to be designed with greater simplicity, both for day and evening wear, and to concetrate rather on the cut and lines than on braid and decorations. The tase, however, varies noticeably in different clans and districts, and those favoured in the north and west are usually of a more elaborate style. In many cases the demand for lightness has led to the selection of the coatee in place of the doublet. All these modern coats, however, are very graceful as well as practical and comfrotable garments. Moreover, the coloured velvet doublets and coatees of the eighteenth century, which could be so well adapted to suit the shades of individual tartans, have again been returning to favour, often with the characteristic silver braiding in a suitably modified form; whilst crosscut tartan jackets (cota fiaraidh) have always retained their popularity in the west and amongst country families. Knowlege of these points and the ability to carry them out successfully are, needless to say, beyond the scope of the ordinary tailor. Production of correct Highland Dress is, indeed, a thing apart from ordinary tailoring, involving as it does a knowledge both of military and traditional civilian practice, and we make the serious claim that from no firm in Scotland or elsewhere can you obtain correct modern Highland Dress of a style and quality comparable to that which we supply. We have given every aspect of this subject our special study, and the steady increase in this branch of our business is a proof of successful application. Amongst our Highland Dress customers we number many well-known Scottish noblemen, chieftans, and gentlemen of the best Scottish families. The know what is correct, both as regards to dress in general and the details fequently individual to certain clans, and the have found by experience that what they require, they can get from us.

Highland Dress In Day Time
The Kilt. A firm, but not necessarily heavy, material makes the best kilt for day wear. One of the several weights of the "hard" tartan or a firm cheviot quality is most suitable. Saxony materials should be avoided as they are generally too soft for outdoor wear. The kilt is usually pleated to show all round the "sett" or design, and a kilt pin secures the apron.
The tartan chosen should be that associated with the wearer's name, failing which, that associated with his mother's maiden name. We have extensive records and we are able to give advice on this point in cases of doubt. In the absence of any claim to wear a particular tartan, the Stewart tartans or the Caledonia are often used.
Especially for shooting, some men prefer a kilt made from tweed instead of tartan.
Jacket and waistcoat.
The modern tendency of fashion is towards simplicity, and the style of jacket illustrated (a plain kilt jacket) is most popular. It is made from Harris Tweed, Homespun, or other suitable Tweed, and Blues, Lovats, and Browns are largely used. The buttons are usually staghorn or leather...
Those who prefer the rather more elaborate coat with gauntlet cuffs and pointed flaps on the pockets will be interested in the small illustration showing this style. (A jacket which we today call "Argyll" is shown.)
Sporran.
A leather sporran is best for day wear. Fur is sometimes used, but hair sporrans with silver or metal tops are unsuitable for wear with day dress.
Stockings.
These should be either plain or with tartan tops and plain legs. They must not be too long...
Flashes should be worn.
Shoes.
Black leather brogues are correct. (Ordinary shoes are shown.)
Headwear.
The Balmoral Bonnet is used almost exclusively, but occasionally the Glengarry is preferred. A crest is worn.
Collar and tie.
A soft collar and any tie may be used.
(It goes on to mention a plaid folded on the shoulder, a tweed overcoat or Inverness cape, and kilt drawers.)

(I'll continue with Highland Dress For Weddings and Courts, and Highland Dress in the Evening. )

NB I should point out that the top article speaks of the braid and ornamentation of Victorian jackets, but in fact the majority of the jackets seen in The Highlanders Of Scotland are absolutely plain, with no piping, braid, or any sort of ornamentation whatever. These quite plain kilt jackets are worn both with plain hose and ordinary shoes or boots, equivalent the the "day" wear above, and also worn with elaborate silver-mounted waistbelts, crossbelts, dirks, sporrans, and shoes, with plaids and brooches, in other words the most elaborate Victorian Full Dress finery. Today we would not think of wearing the same plain jacket with plain Day Dress and also with the most elaborate Evening Dress.