I asked for input a couple of weeks ago regarding the jacket that Mackenzie Frain terms the 1822 commemorative coatee...rest assured that I haven't abandoned that project. I'm actually conceptually building an entire ensemble...and since I'm so busy with work at the moment, it will remain a concept for the time being. Anyways...the reason for this thread...

I'm looking to make a 4-6 button waistcoat made of wool tartan and have looked through several pics on several threads. I've noted several variants of cut on collar and bottom and also want to solicit feedback on fabric weight.

Firstly, on the weight of fabric and sett: What are the thoughts of the masses on the best weight of tartan to make a waistcoat? I'm thinking that 11oz would be ideal...perhaps 13oz. If I were to go with a lighter weight, I realize this means a smaller sett. Does anybody have thoughts about how a smaller set on a waistcoat looks in contrast to a kilt made of the same tartan in a 16oz? This will be cut on the bias, by the way.

Secondly, I'm a bit torn between a straight cut bottom or a notched bottom (I'm not sure the proper terms...but I hope you know what I'm talking about). I think a straight cut bottom looks best if one intends to wear a belt over it, but since I don't, I think I'm leaning towards the more traditional v notch at the bottom of the button seam. What are your thoughts?

Thirdly, I'm torn on putting lapels on the vest. Is there any guidance on when lapels on a vest would be appropriate or not? I'd like this vest to be as all purpose as possible...for wear with a formal doublet, a black argyle, or as a standalone vest with a regular 4 in hand necktie.

Finally, I'm going on the assumption that a satin back is a definite for heat and bulk issues when worn under a jacket. Is there anybody out there that would advocate for a full tartan back on a vest? Just curious.