Barb T.: Thanks for your comments. They make sense and help me understand pleating a bit more, but I'm not about to get between Drs. Tewksbury and Fiddes in a kilt-making discussion. :-)

That's a beautiful Douglas kilt (the Clan of my family, by the way) and makes obvious what you write about "subdued color differences" and non-stripeyness. My brother has an Ancient Douglas and I'll be sure to point him to your post.